Ice climbing and hiking on the Grey Glacier (Torres del Paine)

Moreno Glacier

One of the tourist highlights of Argentina (we arrived here from Southern Chile) and very impressive indeed. This is one of the most active glaciers in the world with huge slabs of ice sheering off the glacier every half hour or so, causing mini tidal waves and deafening booms accross the lake.  I tried in vain to capture the falling ice on camera but my trigger finger was just not snappy enough.

Excerpt from Ally's email


We arrived in El Calafate and struggled to find a room to rest our weary heads but eventually found a place
with a “matrimonial” room. It was a bit musty but it was private and had as much hot water as we wanted so
I was thrilled.

Seeing Moreno Glacier is one of the highlights for me. It is one of the most active glaciers in the world and is advancing at a rate of 2m per day. The wall of ice was about 200m in front of us. Within half an hour of getting there we had seen huge pieces if ice sheer off into the lake causing huge waves. The wall of ice about the water was about 50m high but below the water it went as far as 700m. The front wall must be under the most immense pressure and it is no wonder pieces fall off. G´s dearest wish was to capture a piece falling on video but then it all went quiet.

Against all odds we met Pete and Donna (the Oz couple from Pucon) at the glacier. We had a super dinner
with them catching up and they raved about a town close by called El Chalten so we duly bought tickets
and here we are. It has the famous Fitz Roy mountain which is a huge jagged granite towering mountain. I must admit that I was feeling a little hiked out so G has gone up to so some self bonding (and taking that National Geographic winning photo) and I have hang out at the hostel enjoying great coffee and reading.

We leave here tomorrow and head back up to Buenos Aires. I think it will take us about 3 days on the
bus – well we are traveling just about the whole length of Argentina. After a couple of days there and only after we have uploaded all photos so that you can see what I have tried to describe we will be going to Uruguay for some fun on the beach.

The Fitzroy Mountains

I went on a spectacular two day hike to view Laguna Tres, at the base of the Fitzroy Mountains, as well as Laguna Torre  Not as well marketed as Torres del Paine in Chile, this area in Argentina is definitely on a par in its awe inspiring magnificence.

Laguna Tres

Spoken about by hikers with bated breath, Fitzroy is one of the toughest mountains to climb in the Andes - and like all Ice Queens, breath takingly beautiful. Here I am at sunrise, flustered after a very energetic climb up a steep slope in the dark. Thank goodness for head torches.

The mountain was like a chameleon, adorning itself in different colours at different parts of the day. The photos show pre dawn, sunrise (red, then orange), early morning (all lit up) and late dusk.

The Los Tres Glacier at dawn and dusk. Really beautiful.

The mountain made a stunning backdrop to the lakes, streams and forests of the park.

Laguna Torre

Another impressive set of towers similar to Torres del Paine in Chille with a glacier lake in front. The tallest tower is officially the toughest climb in South America and has been described by one climber as "a mischievous needle that wears its ice mushroom like a bonnet at an arrogant slant."

I was very luck with the weather as the towers usually love to skulk away behind clouds.

I did an extra hours hike along the lake to get a close up view of the glacier and was rewarded when a large chunk of ice broke away from the glacier and landed in the lake with a mighty splash.

More scenes along the way...

Exhausted but exultant after a great two days, Ally did not come as she was all hiked out from Torres del Paine. Got back to find her curled up with a good book at the hostel. I was promptly dispatched to take a shower.

El Chalten at dawn

Here the tiny town sleeps while above, nature performs her morning spectacle of red fire. We happended to catch it at the bus stop on our way out. I used to sympathise with the saying that "If God wanted us to watch sun rises, He'd have made them come at 11 in the morning." But I am starting to revise my opinion.

Birds in Argentina and Chile

My 12 X camera zoom is coming in very handy with the birds. Aren´t the baby swans cute!

Tree Runner

Black-necked Swan

Crested Caracara

Harrier

Upland Goose

Welcome, Dusty!

That´s a seriously cute kitten! The newest member of the Boting Household and a very special "Hall of Fame".fx

Ink blot test - or - reflected tree stump at dusk?

I think it´s the height of abstract photographic art. Well sort of. Ally thinks I´ve reached a low. What do you think?

Huerquehue National Park

Described in our Bible (The Lonely Planet) as one of the "must see" parks in Chile

We were rowed to our camp site by our new found friends, Victor and Nicholas (great because it saved us a long hike with our backpacks).

Ally getting adjusted to our new tent, purchased just a few days ago (it rained one night out of the three and thankfully passed the water proof test, thank goodness)...

Playing Volleyball in a forest clearing...

Meeting our fellow campers (the one on the right was a bit of a frisky fellow)...

Feeling well rested, we then hiked up into the mountains to explore some great views, beautiful waterfalls and high altitude lakes

Enjoying the reflections in the clear weather

Excerpt from Ally´s email

Before we left to go camping they held the national election and have elected the first women president for Chile. There was much honking of horns and people shouting slogans from megaphones. I was a tad concerned to see the riot police in full gear when I went to the supermarket but they were a happy crowd.

I really enjoyed our time in the national park. We stayed at a site initinally right on the banks of the lake and we were the only people there. It was so peaceful and pristinely beautiful. We did a fantastic hike up through the forests to big clear lakes at the top. Unfortunately they were quite close to the snow line so were very cold. I was only brave enough to put my feet in but some chap treated us to a naked swim! I don't think he realised that he would have to walk as far as he did to reach waist high water!

The trip down from the hike was a quarter as short due to the gradient and I started to dream of an ice cold Sprite. But we found a wonderful little place at the bottom that sold the most amazing rasberry pie. We ate it in no time.

We met three girls on the hike back who we knew from the previous hostel who were staying at another camp site so we moved as it was much cheaper. The chap came to fetch us in a row boat and he had a cutie friend who was 10. All four of us girls lost our hearts to the cutie as he had a killer smile and such an eager to please disposition. G spent hours playing volleyball and soccer with them much to their delight.

On our last night camping the weather was turning so we went to this beautiful wooden house and had a traditional Chile meal. It was hot and filling. We met a women who will be staying there for a couple of weeks as she is writing a book. She wouldn't tell us too much about it but she did entertain us with stories of all her travels. She had even been to Antartica. G then started to look in the book about trips there as it is on his life list but is is out of our budget for this trip.

Now we are back in Pucon for a couple of days before heading to Puerto Montt to catch the ferry which take us right down south past glaciers and stark mountian ranges. I am so excited about the ferry trip.