}

16 February 2002

Holiday to Barbados

Highlights







.


14 February 2002

Mum and Mike's wedding




My toast to Mum and Mike on their wedding day

It is my great pleasure to propose the toast today to Mum and Mike.

Before I do that, I’d just like to say how absolutely thrilled and delighted we all are that two such special people have found such happiness together.

Ally, and I have been living in London for the past year so we haven't spent as much time with mum and Mike as we'd like but something that has struck us time and time again, whenever we visit Cape Town, is how much they adore each other and how much fun they have together as a couple.

Whether Mum and Mike are gallivanting along Blouberg beach on a blustery Sunday morning, going off on a romantic weekend to Stellenbosch, shouting their support for the South African cricket team or just having a quiet evening at home, they clearly share a zest for life and for each other and it warms my heart to see.

I've always had a very soft spot for Mike. I remember when I was 9 years old, I suddenly became madly passionate about collecting stamps. Mike invited me round to see his collection - he was a serious collector in those days - and as we flipped through his album, he suddenly reached in and took out a stamp and gave it to me as a spontaneous gift.

I clearly remember being very excited because the stamp had a bust of Queen Victoria on it - not that Queen Victoria's bust was much to look at! - but it meant the stamp was over a hundred years old which seemed mind-bogglingly old to me at the time and really caught my young imagination. 22 years later, I still have that stamp and I still treasure the childhood memories attached to it.

It's been wonderful getting to know Mike and to discover just how special he is.
I love that he's always got a twinkle in his eye and he's always got a fascinating story to tell. I also love his sense of humour - when you're with Mike, you always know you'll get to enjoy a good hearty chuckle about something or other.

Another thing I love about Mike are his passions - like his passion for sport, which I must say is fast rubbing off on mum, although she is not quite yet at the stage of leaping excitedly out of bed at 4 am in the morning to watch the cricket on TV.

Then there is his love for fishing on the Breede River, and his love for collecting antiques and china and paintings and mementos - in fact you name it, I think Mike collects it!

I was amazed to discover that Mike owns every single National Geographic since 1951 or something! Mum took one look at this lot and banished them to the garage where they now take up a whole wall and a half of space. I reckon the reason Mike promptly sold his big Merc and got a zooty Toyota was so he could fit his car amongst the magazines!

Its fitting that Mike is such a special chap because he has found in my mum, a very, very, special partner.

She is simply the most generous and caring and person I know, which is undoubtedly a quality she has inherited from her own mum. She is always there for her friends and family, always thinking of others, always ready, at the drop of a hat, to give of her time and energy to help someone.

And no matter what comes her way in life, she always remains the same - optimistic, full of life and down to earth.

Mum has been an absolute treasure to Jo and me, always encouraging us to follow our own dreams and do what makes us happy. She has also been the most amazingly supportive daughter to granny and gramps during their time in Woodside Village.

And of course, she is the most wonderful Granny. I don't think there has ever been in the history of the world, a more doting and adoring granny than she is to Sam.

So all I can say is that mum deserves only the most special things that life can bring and that is one of the reasons we are so delighted that she has found a soul-mate in someone as special as Mike.

So, friends and family, I'd like to invite you to rise and join with me in toasting our special couple.
Mum and Mike, as you travel on your journey together, may your marriage be filled with love and laughter. May the most you dream for be the least you receive. May your joys be doubled and your troubles halved. And may you live as long as you wish and receive all you wish for as long as you live.

Ladies and gentlemen, to Jill and Mike!



Letter to Mike (July 2004)

Dearest Mike

I don’t know if I’ve ever expressed properly just how absolutely thrilled and blessed I feel to have you as part of my family.

You’ve brought so many blessings to us all:

It warms my heart to see how much you and mum adore each other, and the support and warmth that you bring to each others lives - and also how much fun you obviously have together. It’s been fantastic to see mum find such happiness and fulfillment with such a special person as you.

It warms my heart too, to think of the constant support that you gave gran and gramps and your mum during their tough times at the end. You and mum were a veritable life force to them and made all the difference at a time when they needed you most.

It warms my heart too, when I see what a wonderful grandpa you are to Matthew and Sam – and how they gravitate to your warmth and solidness and sense of fun. They are so very, very lucky to to have you in their lives, now and as they grow up.

It also warms my heart to see how much Jo adores you too – and how much fun you and Anthony have with your shared passions and your shared sense of humour.

And it warms my heart also, to know that you are there for me and Ally too. I know that if ever there is a problem or I need advice or re-assurance, I have only to pick up the phone. Your warmth and your wisdom are so very appreciated.

Obviously, it saddens me that we see you guys so seldom and we do miss you and mum very much. We so look forward to spending more quality time with you in Cambridge during your visit and can’t wait to have you and mum to stay with us in Australia.

Love Graemefx

22 January 2002

Favourite movies watched (2002)

  •  The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers  (2002)
  • Minority Report (2002)
  • The Bourne Identity (2002)
  • Road to Perdition (2002)
  • Chicago (2002)
  • Gangs of New York (2002)
  • Catch Me If You Can (2002)
  • About A Boy (2002)
  • The Godfather 3 (1990)
  • The GodFather (1972)
  • The Godfather 2 (1974)
  • Donnie Darko (2001)
  • Star Wars: Episode V - The Empire Strikes Back  (1980)
  • Star Wars:  Episode IV – A New Hope  (1977)
  • Star Wars: Episode VI – Return of the Jedi (1983)















7 November 2001

Nepal

5 weeks exploring Kathmandu, Pokhara, The Annapurna Circuit and Chitwan National Park


The Annapurna Circuit




























Summary of my time in Nepal
  • Fly into Kathmandu – watch “Knight’s Tale” on the plane
  • Pressure to hire a guide and a porter for the trek, but I decide to go it alone. I want to do it at my own pace and in my own way – and meet fellow travellors
  • Walk around backpacker part of the city – amazing array of backpackers and restaurants
  • My hotel is a little way off the beaten track and I get a little lost finding my way back, but nothing serious
  • Early next morning, leave on a bus for Pokhara
  • Meet Mariam, a friendly Dutch girl, at the bus stop and we soon become friends. She’s on a five week sabbatical from her job.
  • Long bus journey, up hair rasing mountain roads at considerable speed, lots of tooting and passing. Scary and exhilerating. Stop off at some scenic restaurants on the way for quick breaks
  • Pokhara is beautiful, set on a large lake with snow capped mountain set in background. We go rowing on the lake and visit an Island temple. Try my first proper local meal – a bottomless helping of Dahl Bhat (Lentils with a pour on sauce.)
  • Mariam and I decide to brave the mountains on our own, and hopefully meet up with some fellow hikers.
  • Spend next day exploring Pokhara and getting hiking permits. Hire a bicycle and cycle around. Go for a bit of a walk in the country, along the river, to get a feel for what’s to come. I push out my return flight – to just before Xmas
  • Leave on a bus early next day for the start of the Annapurna Circuit. Another arduous bus journey. Bus packed with local and some tourists. Lots of security checks along the way. Towards the end of the trip, we join the locals up on the roof the bus. Lots of fun, using our backpacks as cushions. Bus gets a bit top heavy on some of the winding down bits at the end, and we have to walk parts
  • Bus drops us off at a village – a small group of trekkers with a heap of backpacks on the road
  • Nick and Izzy are instantly friendly – and a SAFFA chap too. Mariam and I join them for the start of the hike
  • Starts off with relatively relaxed walk into mountains, and we discover it’s pretty hard to get lost. Maps are pretty clear and there are fellow hikers to follow
  • Main decision each day is how far to walk and where to overnight. Lots of villages with little tea houses along the way
  • Annapurna Circuit is a 16 – 20 day hike (depending on your pace). First half is a climb up into the mountains, eventually crossing over a high pass (Thorang La) which is high (5400 metres) and pretty cold. Second half is a trek back into civilisation down the other sie of the pass
  • At 3000 metres, one must be mindful of altitude sickness. We aimed never to sleep more than 300 metres above where we slept the night before. Where possible, we climbed up past where we slept by a couple of extra hundred metres to make acclimatising easier. It’s all about building up your red blood corpuscles to better transport the thinner air roun your body
  • Hike begins through farm lands. Lots of buffalos and rice fields. The hike follows a river most of the way. First half of the hike was the less touristic bit, eating lots of local food (Dahl Baht mostly). Some other specialities like battered apple and battered bread. And lots of “pack of noodles” type food
  • Very friendly people, with big smiles.
  • We meet a wonderful English guy (Sanjay) with his Irish girlfriend (Grania) on about the 5 th day. Immediate repoir with them and bump into them regularly on way up the mountain.
  • I hike with Izzy, Nick and Mariam. Nick is a hard core hiker – works at a consulting firm in London as a printing specialist, Izzy is a vet who works in Bristol – the epitome of an english country lass. Great, great couple. I get on very well with them – and we have lots of laughs
  • Some tea houses sell chocolate cake and other baked goodies – real treat after hours of hiking
  • Many hostels very traditional and basic – it’s literally a case of sharing the house with a local family, on the 2nd story. First floor for the animals!
  • Often share the path with a large herd of donkey carrying goods up into the mountain. The only way to get stuff (cokes, chickens, chocolates, wood etc.) up into the mountain to more remote villages is by carrying. Donkeys carry some stuff, sherpas other stuff. Donkeys travel in “trains” an have bells so they toll as they walk. Sherpas carry huge loads with strap attached to their heads (so neck takes the weight) – not their shoulders as we tend to do. Scientific research has shown many of these guys have denser and more powerful bones than we do – gnetic from generations of heavy carrying? Some porters were carrying as many as three backpacks in a sack attached to their heads – amazing. Some shepas carry huge cage of chickens.
  • My energy snacks of choice were Bar 1 and Lemon Fanta. Food gets increasingly expensive as you travel higher up the mountain (because you have to pay for transport too)
  • Mountains get higher and more and more spectacular as ascend first half of the hike. Each day, views become more awesome. Towering, ice capped peaks. Farms start to give way to thick pine forest. Every so often, you need to cross onto the other side of the river, across metal swing bridges
  • Get to Mannag at 3500 metres, a large town famous for it’s baked goodies. Get to enjoy a rare shower (I think I got to shower 4 times in 20 days!)
  • Izzy, Nick and I decided to head off the beaten path on an optional side excursion – and ascent to the highest lake in the world – Telicho Lake. It’s at 5900 metres. It’s a three day excursion. Mariam is not keen but she has met 2 friendly Dutch girls so joins up with them.
  • We spent first night in an extremely traditional house with some locals, preparing ourselves for the onslaught ahead. We were all a bit confused about the altitue climbs ahead, and hoping we could take it. Altitude sickness has nothing to do with fitness – it attacks even the most fit. The worst form (water on the brain) is fatal.
  • Next day we headed straight up. We climbed up close to 1000 metres, then back down over a lip. Extremly heavy going at such high altitudes. Altitude saps your energy and it becomes hard just to put one foot in front of the other. We experienced some very steep paths with terrifying fall offs an being scared of heights, I had some dizzy moments.
  • Finally, after some scrambling down a very, very steep shale slope, we arrived at our overnight spot – a ramshackled hostel set in a valley. A very cold and uncomfortable night – head-aches due to altitude and had to get up to pee several times (another altitude side effect).
  • Next day, climbed another 1000 metres into the snow capped mountains to the lake. Saw an avalanche on the way. The lake itself is exquisite – sparkling blue with mountain peaks reflected off it. Extremely cold up at this altitue though, we could not stay for too long. Then back down to the hut.
  • Next day, we return to the main circuit along the lower route – which requires some very firm footing on some knife edge paths. Very scary at times. On the way, we bump into Sanjay and Grania and walk with them most of the way. They were downhill specialists – and could travel at some startling rates.
  • Next section was a big higjlight too – Izzy, Nick and I decided to travel the high road, overnighting at some very traditional villages. Slept in a run down local home with the donekys sleeping below. Really getting a feel for how the locals live.
  • I am ecstatic to see my first ever “Bearded Vultures”. It has been one of my life goals to see this bird and I walked the South African Drakensberg mountains flat in my efforts to spot one. Here they are quite common. Huge wing spans and very majestic, their speciality is to drop bones from a high height onto rocks to shatter them so they can get at the marrow. Egyptian vulture sightings too so I am in my element.
  • The pine forests become thinner and replaced by mountain scrub and grass. Weather eroded rocks poke through. Snow capped peaks tower ahead.
  • Very exciting moment – my first meeting with a real life yak. Big, hairy cow like creature. Apparently they can only live at 3000 metres and above.
  • It was becoming very cold at night, I wore two fleeces and my down feather jacket in a down sleeping bag and still felt cold. My water bottle regularly froze next to me. At hostels, all the trekkers would eat together with special heaters under the table. Very communal and lots of fun. It’s impossible not to make lots of friends on the way.
  • Next challenge was the pass itself. Had to leave early in the morning (but careful not to make it too early or you freeze.) Steep winding climb of nearly 1000 metres. At the top, there is a huge cluster of prayer flags and a little tea shop for a congratulatory bar one. Everyone in very good spirits. Then an equally steep descent to a village on the other side. Some spectacular views on the way down.
  • Ah, what a beautiful, spiritual village. Beautiful monasteries – one with a shrine to all the world religions. One holy site is shared by both Hindus and Budhists alike (you wouldn’t find that with Chritianity and Islam!). I meditate next to a lovely lake and feel my spiritual side breath back to life. I am re reading “ Deepak Chopra’s Seven Laws of Spiritual Success” and am reminded of the power of the moment. You are often very much in the moment while you hike and it feels awesome.
  • The villagers bring down three yaks from the moutains and slaughter them. It’s freaky but interesting to watch. They harvest ever last scrap of the animal. Even the tail is harvested to become a duster. Some drink the fresh blood and eat the raw flesh. Dividing up the bodies takes almost a full day.
  • Izzy and Nick are on a tight schedule so they decide to hurtle down the mountain on the 2 nd part of the hike. I’m happy to chill so join up with Sanjay and Grania.
    The second village down is also a very spiritual place with a beautiful monastery overlooking the valley and villagers living as they always have. They herd their animals in at night to keep them warm. We play football with some of the local kids and my spirit soars.
  • The food on this part of the mountain is more touristic – but delicious beyond belief. Lots of pizzas and lasagnes and pastas and baked goodies. Orgasmically good after all the Dahl Baht of the previous two weeks. I eat loads and loads.
  • We meet some American tourists who are rather gullible – Sanjay and I lead them on a merry tale of how Yaks explode below 3000 metres. They lap up every word and are amazed.
  • It is very dry at the top of this side of the mountain. As we make our way down the valley, the scenery can be best described at desserty. The wind blows up the sand and we have to cover our mouths. It’s tough going at times.
  • We come close to the border to Tibet. There’s a very scenic village here with stunning views across a river valley. An old fort gives it extra atmosphere. You can kike this valley but it is very expensive.
  • I am feeling very chilled and happy to go slow and enjoy the atmosphere. I buy “The Lord of the Rings Trilogy” and carry it along with me. Heavy – but what a fantastic read. I am immersed in the strory of Frodo Baggins and Gandalf the Grey. Very excited that the movie is coming out close to the time I am back in the UK.
  • I am also reading "Conversations with God by" Neale Donald Walsch and it’s a revelation. Probably the best book on spirituality I have ever read and it rings true for me. It answers many of the questions I have been grappling with for a long time. Brilliant book. Thanks to Rosemary who gave it to me.
  • I decide to exert some major effort once more and ascend Poon Hill for some inspiring views. Sanjay and Grania head down for some romance so we part. It’s a tough climb for a full day. I overnight at a warm hostel an then very early the next morning (in the dark!), climb the last bit of the hill for the sunrise. There’s an outlook tower and it’s breathlessly beautiful.
  • The pine forest return and then thin out into farm lands. More buffalos and rice and farmers hard at work.
  • Arrive at large village that many tourists fly into for a few days trekking. Very civilised. I have my first hot shower in close to three weeks. I sit under it and have never enjoyed a shower more. May I never take showers for granted again.
    Arrive at a village with hot springs – very relaxing. I bump into Mariam again with the Dutch girls – great to see them again.
    Finally arrive at tail end of hike and bump into Izzy and Nick again – having returned from a whirlwind ascent of another peak.
  • Get the bus back to Pokhara and go straight to the Everest Steak house for a huge steak (they ship in the meat from Argentina) Must rate as close to my best steak ever. Izzy and Nick manage close to 1 kg of meat between them!
  • I hire a boat and explore the lake for birds. Then climb to an impressive monastery on top of the hill but the mist rather obscures the view.
  • Catch the bus to Chitwan National Park – famous for it’s birds. I bump into the Dutch girls there and we all get on very well. Great Indian food at a local restaurant.
  • I hire a guide who specialises in birds and spend two days trekking the jungles. See 74 new birds – amazing… Also see Sloth Bear and hear Tiger roaring very close by. The long grass makes it hard to spot animals but the birds make up for that. Highlights include stork billed kingfisher and enormous woodpeckers. 6 species of woodpecker alone! I really enjoy my guide – La. I try desperately to email him afterwards but the email bounces back.
  • Back to Kathmandu for some sightseeing. Visit “Money Monastery “ for great views and a game of kicking up elastic bands with the locals. Also watch cremations at the holy river. Amazing
  • Fly back to London in time for Xmas. Nepal must rate as one of my three favourite countries. I am very motivated to do the Everest Base camp trek one day.

5 November 2001

Birding at Chitwan National Park (Nepal)

 Dairy entry

  • Catch the bus to Chitwan National Park – famous for it’s birds. I bump into the Dutch girls there and we all get on very well. Great Indian food at a local restaurant.
  • I hire a guide who specialisea in birds and spend two days trekking the jungles. See 74 new birds – amazing… Also see Sloth Bear and hear Tiger roaring very close by. The long grass makes it hard to spot animals but the birds make up for that. Highlights include stork billed kingfisher and enormous woodpeckers. 6 species of woodpecker alone! I really enjoy my guide – La. I try desperately to email him afterwards but the email bounces back.

New birds seen in Chitwan National Park (72)

  • Red-vented bulbul
  • Lineated Barbet
  • Blue-eared Bee-eater
  • Black-crested Bulbul
  • Red-whiskered bulbul
  • Common Buzzard
  • Oriental Honey Buzzard
  • Common Coot
  • House Crow
  • Large-billed crow
  • Yellow-billed Chough
  • Large Cuckooshrike
  • Darter
  • Emarald Dove
  • Eurasian Collared Dove
  • Black Drongo
  • Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
  • Spangled Drongo
  • White-bellied drongo
  • Grey-headed Fish Eagle
  • White-throated fantail
  • Oriental Pied Hornbill
  • Black Ibis
  • Common Iora
  • Stork-billed Kingfisher
  • Rufous-winged Bushlark
  • Sand Lark
  • Red-billed Blue Magpie
  • Rufous Treepie
  • Scarlet Minivet
  • Small Minivet
  • Common Moorhen
  • Jungle Myna
  • Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch
  • Velvet-fronted Nuthatch
  • Black-hooded Oriole
  • Asian Barred Owlet
  • Alexandrine Parakeet
  • Plum-headed Parakeet
  • Red Jungle Fowl
  • Yellow-footed Green Pigeon
  • Olive-backed Pipit
  • Ashy Prinia
  • Grey-Breasted Prinia
  • Grey-crowned Prinia
  • Plain Prinia
  • Common rosefinch
  • Common Woodshrike
  • Large Woodshrike
  • Jack Snipe
  • Lesser Adjutant
  • Barn Swallow
  • Crested Tree Swift
  • Great Tit
  • Egyptian Vulture
  • Lammergeier
  • Common Greenshank
  • Little Ringed Plover
  • Red-wattled Lapwing
  • Citrine Wagtail
  • White Wagtail
  • White-browed Wagtail
  • Grey-sided bush warbler
  • Paddyfield Warbler
  • Black-breasted Weaver
  • Oriental white-eye
  • Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker
  • Greater Flameback
  • Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker
  • Grey-headed Woodpecker
  • Himalyan Flameback
  • Lesser Yellownape
  • Ashy Woodswallow

13 September 2001

An overland trip from Cape Town to Nairobi






Countries and places visited



A summary of our trip
  • 4 week overland trip from Cape Town to Nairobi through South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania and Kenya with “Which Way Adventures” in a large truck with 13 fellow passengers and two crew
  • Pre-briefing to meet fellow travellers and the crew. They are delighted to have a fellow SAFA on board
  • Leave from Business School at Waterfront. First view of our yellow truck
  • First camp, briefing from Martin, learn how to pitch tents
  • Memorable fellow travellers: Carl, my tent mate, an American law student and intrepid photographer; Chris the hilariously funny group clown; Rory, the firy and booze loving Irishman; “Mama”, very large, loud, fun American who got on Martin’s nerves; Anna the wingy Australian; Terra the young student from “down South” with the long drawl; Menno, the older, zany Dutch lorry driver
  • Views of Fish river canyon – and river walk at camp site
  • Hear about 9 / 11 just outside Swakopmund ( Namibia) - shocking but surreal
  • Cycling into town with Anna from the camp site
  • Sand buggying in dunes of Swakopmund
  • Nice camp site in Namib with canyon walk. Get sozzled on punch and get to know each other
  • Climbing a large dune in the Namib and viewing an ancient petrified forest in the middle of the desert (where they filmed “The Cell” starring Jenniefer Lopez)
  • Driving through Namib coastal park and seeing large seal colony (very smelly!)
  • Seeing lions at the “night hole” at Etosha Pan and a leopard on a game drive
  • Long game drive to hilly part of Etosha
  • Lazing in the pool at Etosha camp
  • Walk into a barbed wire fence and cut my stomach (faint scar to this day)
  • Fly into Okovango Swamp from Maun in tiny plane ( Botswana)
  • Moses, the fun local guide. “Welcome to Afrika” in his deep voice
  • Makuro (dug out boats) through the swamp – overnighting on an island with roars of lions and hyena skulking close by
  • Game walk on island in Okovango
  • Watching birds and hippos from the look-out at Okovango camp – and trying to find our wooden huts in the dark
  • Stay in Baobab camp on way to Chobe – and I prove my worth my climbing the pole in the bar to write my name on the roof
  • Sun set river trip at Chobe, watching elephants on the bank
  • Holding breath under the water competitions in pool at Chobe – I manage close to 3 minutes but Carl just pips me
  • Martin meets a soul mate, a South African tourist who joins us for the next 5 days – he’s in love for the rest of the trip
  • Victoria Falls – white river rafting grade 5 rapids along Zambezi River (feeling rather ill due to dehydration)
  • Pissing it up in the local bar (after a meal at the Spur) – Chris gets a body shot from Mama!
  • Touts desperately selling foreign currency
  • Overnight in cool camp on Zambian side of Zambezi
  • Sun set and all you can drink cruise along the Zambezi River – and pushing Carl into the pool with his passport, then getting pushed in myself
  • Ben takes out his glass eye
  • Slow progress over pot holed, narrow roads in Zambia – slow progress in the big truck
    Southern
  • South Luanga National park – day and night drive. See leopard cubs, Scops Owl
    Great fun by pool at South Luanga and elephants coming through the camp, playing darts
  • Into Malawi, the land of happy, colourful people
  • 4 amazing days at camp on Lake Malawi – snorkeling, windsurfing, fishing, water skiing. Fun with the camp’s tame squirrel monkey who loved playing with the dogs. Watch England narrowly claw back a draw against Greece in the Euro qualifier. Apocolypse Now – Terra’s favourite movie. “Truth or dare”
  • Locking Chris into his tent
  • Weird swimming out in what look like the ocean but not needing to worry about sharks
    Apple pie at the famous local tea house
  • Two nights at another camp along the lake – beer race against another truck, great waterfall walk, swimming in some quite big waves
  • Reading “Down Under” by Bill Bryson
  • Into Tanzania – the girls have trouble peeing in private because curious local keep appearing from nowhere
  • Dar Es Salaam camp site – get to swim in the ocean. Prostitutes in the camp cause some merriment. Sexual confessions – innocent Terra does some shocking
  • Zanzibar ferry to Spice Town. Italian ice cream, night fish markets
  • Drive a jeep with Terra and Mamma, while others go motor biking. Red Colobus Monkey. Great forest walks. Up north to a gorgeous coastal camp. Swimming, beach walks, turtle aquarium, smoking grass, Lounge music, lying till very late by the fire
  • Serengetti base camp – love birds, great bar, Panic Mechanic
  • Drive to camp on outskirts – see Coucal
  • Serrengetti – see the big 5 within an hour, leopard hanging over tree, cheetah too. Giant Eagle Owl. Sit on roof of the cruisers, sharing sightings on walkie talkie.
  • Ngoro Gora Crater, amazing views down, fever trees, flamingos on the pan, lion.  Wild pigs at camp on top of crater
  • Back to Serengetti Base camp for a big piss up
  • Kenya lake – Malachite Kingfisher, watch TV, feel a little blue, Born Free house where Hamiltons lived
  • To Nairobi. Visit museum with Terra
  • Fly out back to London - what an awesome trip


New birds seen

Etosha (Namibia)
  • Doublebanded Sandgrouse
  • Sociable weaver
  • Kori Bustard

Okavango
  • Lesser honeyguide

Ngora Crater
  • Lesser Flamingo

Serengeti
  • Whitebrowed Coucal
  • Southern Crowned Crane
  • Giant Eagle Owl
  • Yellowthroated Sandgrouse

South Luanga
  • African Scops Owl
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