Egypt (4-26 August 1997)

Nuweyba, Dahab, Luxor, Aswan, Cairo

Post cards, letters and photos from 3 weeks backing solo in Egypt. 

Places visited

Letter home

Dear Mum, Gran, Gramps, Jo and Ant

Hi there! I hope this letter gets to you because the Egyptian postal service is notoriously suspect! Right now I’m in the Sinai desert on the coast of the Gulf of Aquaba (part of the Red Sea). I’m staying at an extremely rustic camp with Robinson Crusoe style grass huts, very basic toilets and nothing else for miles around. A wonderful spot to relax after my hurly burly trip through Israel and Jordan. It gets rather hot here during the day (understatement of the Century!) so we spend our time lazing in the shade with occasional splashes in the sea – which is a deliciously refreshing temperature. There is a huge coral reef here so there is lots to explore. I’m planning to explore the Sinai for at least a week; the scenery is awesome and it’s so cheap. Accommodation is costing me R5 a night. Some people come here for a day or two and end up staying for 6 months. They’re the ones with long beards and smelly armpits. Not for me though – I cannot wait to get to the Nile Valley to see ancient pyramids and temples. From here I intend to make my way to Aswan, then catch a Felucca (Egyptian boat) up the Nile to Luxor (apparently this is an awesome experience) then head north to Cairo. I’d also like to explore some of the desert oases before flying to Athens on 26th August. Three weeks in Greece, then I meet Ally in Istanbul Turkey.

The Middle East has been a real experience – so different from travelling in Europe. The first thing that strikes you is the climate – it’s very hot. In Eilat and Aquaba we experienced temperatures well into 40ºC. There are advantages – one is able to travel really light with just a pair of shorts and a few T shirts (drying washed clothes is an instantaneous affair) – and accommodation is always cheap because all you need is a mattress on the roof (I’ve become addicted to sleeping under the stars).

After Jordan we made our way into Egypt. To do so we had to use a ferry across the Red Sea. What an experience it was. Two hours late and crammed so tight with locals there was hardly a place to sit on the open deck –not to mention the problem of the beating sun on the three hour crossing. Drank lots of water. After another two hours in Egyptian customs (you would not believe how inefficient and slow the Egyptian “wheels” turn), we were free to begin our hedonistic lifestyle on the Red Sea.

I stayed in Nuweyba for a week – really relaxing and quiet with awesome coral reefs. Highlights included swimming with a huge turtle and wild dolphin. Mark left for Cairo – he couldn’t stand the quiet but I soon became really good friends with a wonderful girl from Peru and guy from Holland. We were all really sad to say goodbye when the week was up.
Then to Darhab, also on the Red Sea, where hundreds of young people come to chill out and have fun. The whole place had a 60’s “free” feel and was very festive. The coral reef was spectacular here too – a temporary diversion from all the partying. For some exercise we climbed to the top of Mount Sinai (resisting the temptation to go by camel). We spent the night on top (very cold, but fantastic stars in the night sky). The sunrise was also awesome.

From the Sinai I caught a boat to Hurgada – a mammoth 5-hour journey of buffeting waves. I thought I was going to die of seasickness. From there, an epic bus ride to Aswan to see the famous temple of Abu Simbel and Philae. The Aswan High Dam was a disappointment – I was expecting a huge wall but it wasn’t to be. However seeing the Nile and walking along it was exciting. IN Aswan I met three wonderful girls from Germany and we travelled together for five days. They didn’t speak much English so communication was a real challenge and often hilariously funny. My German has certainly come a long way.

Then another highlight of my trip – I sailed along the Nile to Edfu on a Felucca (a traditional Egyptian sailing boat). The trip took three days and provided glorious scenery and relaxation. Our captain was a really friendly local who made us laugh constantly and my four fellow passengers were also great fun. On the second night, we stopped off at our captain’s village to meet his wife and kids (all 8 of them) and enjoy a simple but delicious Egyptian meal. Food in Egypt is tasty and cheap –but you’ve got to be careful of what and where you eat. Lots of my travelling companions have come down with nasty tummy problems – but I’ve been fine so far (touch wood). Egypt is good training ground for India – where everyone gets sick.

After three lazy days of watching the banks of the Nile goby (and eating, sleeping and temple watching) we arrived at Edfu. From there to Luxor – home of the famous “Valley of the Kings” where the ancient Egyptians buried their Pharaoh in beautiful, colourful tombs carved in the mountain. Lots more impressive ancient temples, too. After bingeing on all the sights, I caught the train (surprisingly luxurious for Egypt) to Cairo. What a mad city! 20,000,000 people living close together, all Egyptians drive like maniacs and love hooting their horns. The only way to escape the noise is to stay in hotels at least 10 floors up. However, it is wonderfully vibrant with teeming shops and markets and lots of interesting sights including the awesome pyramids which have to be seen to be believed. They are huge! The Egyptian museums also provided hours and hours of interest.

Tomorrow I leave Cairo and fly to Athens. I’ve heard lots of good reports about Greece and cannot wait to see it.

So that’s a quick summary of my Middle East travels. It’s been absolutely fantastic – I never realised life could be this exhilarating. I’ve made some wonderful friends and am fast collecting addresses from all over the world.

I’m sorry that my correspondence has been so frugal while I’ve been in Egypt – but I’ve been hearing so many sad tales about the postal service that I decided to rather keep my postcards and send them from Greece. I hope Ally gave you the message that I was alive and kicking.

I hope you guys are well. I think about you all the time on my travels. There are so many things about home that I miss. I’ll try and phone you as soon as I get to Athens.



From Post Cards


Dahab

• I spent close to two weeks in the Sinai – exploring the desert and the coral reefs. Nuweiba, the first town I stayed in was rustic and quiet (very relaxing). Then I moved to Dahab, full of young backpackers and rave-up parties all night. It was great experiencing both worlds.

The Wonders of the Red Sea

• I spent many fascinating hours snorkelling in the coral reefs of the Red Sea. Spiritual stuff – teeming with brightly coloured fish and sea plants. My best moments were swimming with a huge turtle and then later, a friendly dolphin that loved the company of people.

St Catherine

• I climbed all the way to the top of Mt Sinai (a long way!) then slept the night on the top after watching the sunset. Then after a very chilly night, we watched the sunrise and made our way down to the Monastery of St Catherine’s which has a room full of the skulls of dead monks who worked in the monastery through the ages.

Karnak

• Karnak is one of the mediumst remaining temples in the world and very impressive indeed with towering pillars and walks. Just to walk round it takes an hour. Just about every bit of rock making up he temple is covered in hieroglyphics – some of it rather x rated. Karnak is situated in Luxor, a town on the Nile in central Egypt.

The Temple of Queen Hatchepsut

• Here is another temple that really impressed me. As you can see, temples look very different at night when they are lit up. It’s great walking around temples at night, not just because of the atmosphere, but also because you don’t have to contend with the sweltering sun. One advantage though of being in Egypt in the hot summer is that there are less tourists.

Aswan

• Aswan is a beautiful place – with wonderfully shady walks along the Nile. Thank god for the shade because it can reach 50ºC here. From Aswan we climbed onto a Felucca (traditional sailing boat) and spent three lazy days sailing along the Nile – exploring islands and temples along the way. We ended up in Edfu and then caught a bus to Luxor.

Valley of the Kings

• Visiting the pharaoh’s tombs in the Valley of the Kings was one of my biggest highlights. The tombs are built deep into the mountainside (like caves) and the walls are beautifully painted in fresh, bright coloured pictures (like the one shown on the postcard). The entrances to the tombs were originally hidden to deter thieves.
• We went through hell to get here, a cramped three and a half hour bus journey through the scorching desert, but it was well worth it. When the Aswan dam was built, this temple was in danger of being swallowed by the rising waters, so organisations from across the world moved it – brick by brick, to a new site (an awe inspiring achievement).

The Temple of Philae

• This is one of the stunning temples I visited in Aswan. Yet another temple that they had to move brick by brick when the Aswan dam was built. The temple is now situated on an island in the middle of the Aswan dam. Not surprisingly, the Egyptians charge you a fortune to visit by boat – you really have to be careful in Egypt or you can get really ripped off. Whenever you want to buy something in Egypt, the Egyptians will tell you an exorbitant price and then you have to haggle them down. It’s part of the culture here.

Cairo – The Mehemet Ali Mosque

• The Mosques in Cairo are absolutely beautiful, and very old. Many date back to 500AD. I spent a spiritual morning in the Mehmet Ali Mosque feasting my eyes on its stunning architecture and colourful interior. I’ve developed a much stronger understanding of the Muslim religion in the Middle East. It’s great to explore other cultures. It makes you think about things differently.

Cairo

• Cairo is a mad city. 20 million people rushing around frantically like ants. Noisy, everyone continually hoots their car horns, chaotic, smelly – but fascinating. We spent hours just walking the streets, mesmerised by all the goings on. Cairo has enormous markets where you can buy anything real cheap. In all, a great place to visit (but not stay too long!).

Giza

• Please excuse the kitsch postcard – it was the only one of the pyramids I could find. Postcards in Egypt leave a lot to be desired! The pyramids and sphinx at Giza were fantastic. You wouldn’t believe the size of them. I explored the area on horseback (great fun) and went right deep inside the Great Pyramid – a very eerie experience. Sunset over the area was unforgettable – miraculously we were nearly the only tourists there. It’s great to have finally seen the 7th wonder of the ancient world.

Cairo – the Egyptian Museum

• The Egyptian Museum in Cairo was very impressive – a huge building crammed with ancient relics. Tutankhamen’s treasure, including solid gold masks and statues were awe-inspiring. They certainly buried their kings in style! Another highlight was the Mummy Room – full of grinning and shrivelled up bodies of the Great Pharaohs of old. Macabre but fascinating.
• This map will give you a basic idea of my trip around Egypt. It was a fascinating country and I made many good friends. My next adventure is Greece. I fly into Athens tomorrow.

Travel Notes


Nuweyba

• No wonder the Jews were in the wilderness for 40 years - they discovered the Sinai, camped on the Red Sea and smoked grass with the Bedouins all day.
• Arrive in Nuweyba, at rustic camp with grass huts and gorgeous beach. We have met some quiet Check girls. The lazy life begins. Sleep on beach to sound of lapping waves.
  Tues 5, lazy day resting and swimming. Mark like a bear with soar head - to slow for him. He has become hyper critical of so much and I feel all self conscious that he is judging everything I say. Life consists of sleeping, eating and swimming.
• Wed 6, another relaxing day. Snorkel on the beautiful reef. Meet South American girl studying "Grunberg technique" in Israel. Beautiful, radiant person - spontaneous and warm.
• Thurs 7, Mark and Stefan leave early. Ariele and I chat. Fantastic snorkeling.
• Fri 8, more snorkeling where I see a turtle - spiritual stuff. Go into town to Dr Sheesh kebab for fantastic pancake and breakfast. Meet our new resident, Dutch actor called "Case". Warm and funny, he is manager of a theatre company. Laze around and go to town for great evening meal at Dr Sheesh. Make friends everywhere we go. Back to camp for joints and fun with camp people (Looka, Maurice). I learn to smoke properly.
• Sat 9, I find someone has been into my sacred wallet and taken my big notes, including my dollars ($300) and travellors cheques.
• Swim with local dolphin - amazing. Scores of swimmers trying to get a touch. With my flippers, I can keep up really well.
• Try to catch bus to Dahab but never arrive. To Chinese restaurant with Case and Ariele - delicious beer. Case has really made an impression.

Dahab

• Sun 10, I go to Dahab. Hot concrete room like an oven. Very touristy but food good. Swim at Blue Hole, 100 m deep hole in shallow coral. Spiritual world of colour and abundant life. See Scorpion and Rock Fish. At 11 pm, I climb Mount Sinai to watch sunrise.
• Mon 11, climb dow and visit St Catherines Monastery. Really tired! Read "All that Remains" - serial killer mystery.
• Tues 12, back to Blue Hole, then eat out on town with friendly british group. Dahab looks good at night with thousands of lights.
• Impressions - bleak drown desert with multi coloured world under sea, slow motion customs officials, buses that never arrive, bus looks for petrol at 11 pm, driving 100 km off route to get it.

Luxor

• Wed 13, catch bus and boat to Hurdada.
• Thurs 14, I allow myself to be forced to hasty taxi experience. To Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple (by night light - fantastic) Get lost travelors cheques but not resolved. Buy illegal alcohol for hotel. Fuluca to Banana Island with Australian - no wind so motor boat pulls us with 5 other boats.
• Fri 15, to West Bank - Valley of Kings (Ramses IV no 2, Ramses VI - amazing) Also to Temple of Ramses III (Habu) and Hatsheput.

Aswan

• Catch train to Aswan, meeting three wonderful girls from E Germany. (Steffi, Danie, Anya).
• Sat 16, walk round city markets, felucca ride to Kitchener Island (botanical island), Elephant Island (museum + temple). Hotel Norhaan is great. Meet Liverpool guy and his Hong Kong wife for supper at Emy's restaurant. Inspiring - they are well over 30 and traveling.
• Sun 17, long trip to Abu Simbel. Eerie desert scenes. Temple amazing, especially considering been moved block by block to new place when dam built. Built into huge mountain which later find is man made - go into center where like space set.
• Temple of Philae on island of Aswan - lose my temper getting a boat. Chill out.
• Unimpressive Aswan dam. Supper with German girls. They have made me feels so welcome - clicked really well.

Nuweyba, Dahab, Luxor, Aswan, Cairo

Felucca trip

• Mon 18, I begin my wonderful felucca trip with Mohammed, warm and friendly. Fello trippers are Keith (British photographer), Midge (German / English marine biology with confused accent) and two german girls (Connie and Ellen). Lazy watching the lush Nile go by - smoking grass. Two rats on board. Washes plates in Nile. Lots of tea. Zig zag along on strong wind. My soul relaxes and soars.
• Tues 19, early morning temple visit, then day of sailing to Mohammed's house in Edfu. Very poor and basic but warm hospitality and lots of filling supper. Excited children everywhere. Smoke Shisha till late, then sleep on boat. I feel absolutely wonderful - must find more experiences like this.

Luxor revisited

• Wed 20, visit Edfu Temple. Then to New Everest Hotel in Luxor. Walk around town with Merge. Awful supper of Sheesh Kebab. Only eat at recommended redtaurants! Night of drinking cinzanno and smoking grass with felucca girls and a smooth, fuckaholic local.
  I have been traveling now for over 4 months. Learned a lot. Have realised experiences and nature are far more important than seeing lots of sights. Do really NB things (eg pyramids), then look beyond the beaten track. Do what is good for soul.
• Impressions: Hassling everywhere. Come into my shop, baksheesh, inflated prices that have to haggle for. Tooting horns, flash lights when pass oncoming car, use both lanes. Egypt is a narrow strip of green in a hot desert, if the Aswan breaks, the whole country will be swamped. Date trees everwhere. Eating always a bit precarious - will I get the runs, tummy cramps, constipation?

Cairo

• Thurs 21, catch train to Cairo. Meet wonderful German chap (Marcus) with gorgeous sense of fun and enthusiasm. Travel Cairo together. Stay at Sun Hotel, smoke grass on roof.
• Fri 22, to awesome Pyramids at Giza. Ripped off by horse rental company but fun galloping. Crawl through inside of 2nd pyramid and walk round Great Pyramid. Walk round Cairo - mad, bustling, tooting city. Great cheap food (noodle dish eaten by locals - Kushuri). Buy vodca from Duty Free and get drunk with Merge, Marcus and Tom etc. on the roof. The security guard and local roof dweller get drunk with us. What a bond alcohol can make!
• Story: Eed. Family in Cairo playing wth goat. Kicking ball against it. Girls playing with hair. Suddenly arrive - father hacking at it - son kicking head round lawn. Put hands in blood and put on walls. All thru town can hear bleating animals. Sheep killed on cars. Turkey neck broken.
• Sat 23, see the Egyptian Museum - King Tutenkamen's treasures awesome. To think he was a small king! Solid gold masks within masks in tomb in tomb (4x). Mummy room very eerie - Egypt's Greats exposed in death. Walk to Bazaar and old Cairo - miles later catch taxi home. Marcus is wonderful - zestful enthusiasm completely infectious.
• Sun 24, to Citadel to see beautiful Muhammed Ali mosque (spiritual, quiet sit inside, then city of Dead - massive cemetary of graves with people living too. Tom came with us - hyper stressed and negative but nice company.
• I'm so enjoying traveling - haven't been lonely for more than a day.
• Mon 25, quiet day at hotel. Tom going mad with impatience to get out of Egypt. Afternoon return to Giza Pyramids to walk round and watch sun set. Fantastic. Shitty ride on horse. Meet great couple (Dutch guy and his Peruvian girlfriend.) Walked around town together getting on famously. Stay awake till early morning.
• Impresions: Mad roads in Cairo, driving in taxi like an Arcade game, hooting. Chap cycling in street with huge box of bread on his head. Kushuri noodles - local restaurant where we gain respect of locals by pouring on the super hot sauce. Locals jump onto moving buses packed like sardines.
• Hassle - always want something - "My sisters birthday tomorrow, buy me drink from Duty Free shop. Come visit my factory. Want to eat something. You my friend. For you - special price."

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Next stop

• Greece

Jordan (27 July-4 August 1997)

Petra, Amman

Post cards, letters and photos from my week of solo backpacking in Jordan.

Places visited

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From Post Cards


Jordan

• Petra in Jordan is without doubt one of the highlights of my trip so far. Huge temples and tombs carved out of the sheer cliff face – a massive ancient city that was forgotten and lost for 700 years till its discovery in the 1800’s. It was used as the setting for Indiana Jones (the movie).
• Another scene from Petra. Amazing to think it was carved 1500 years ago. The desert landscape with deep canyons everywhere is as impressive as the monuments themselves. I have spent two unforgettable days hiking the area – one could spend months here and not get bored.

The Siq, Petra

• Yet another photo that shows the awesome scenery of Petra – deep canyons that one can explore forever and a day. Steep climbs up the side of the canyon made for unbelievable views over the entire city and beyond.

Amman Roman Theatre

• I spend three days in Amman, the capital of Jordan – a medium, hustling Arab city with lots to see and eat and experience. The people here are unbelievably friendly. Often they even insist on paying our bus fare and offering us free food. Smiles and “welcome to Jordan” wherever we go. So cheap too – a three course meal costs R10!

Jerash Triumphal Arch

• Jerash is the mediumst ancient Roman ruins of a provincial city in the world and was very impressive indeed. There is an international arts festival here at the moment – another case of excellent (lucky!) timing. The huge ancient theatre was a highlight – the acoustics are brilliant even after all these years. I got to try out my “Friends, Romans and Countrymen” speech I learned back at school.

The Oval Plazza – Jerash

• Another view of Jerash. The Jordanians are busy restoring the city to its former glory. I cannot believe how prolific the Romans were – no matter where they travel in the world, there seems to be Roman ruins. I must say my Latin comes in very handy for translating all the inscriptions.

St George Church at Madaba

• We went to Madaba especially to see the mosaic on the floor of St George’s Church. It is a huge map of Palestine, laid down in the 6th Century – nearly 1500 years ago. The part of the map shown here is Jerusalem. The amazing thing is that some of the buildings in the map still exist. I should know, I visited them. E.g. Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Qusair Amra, Jordan

• From Amman we travelled into the desert to explore a serious of castles out in the middle of nowhere. Public transport was non existent so we hitched. Anywhere else we may have struggled – but not in Jordan. We got a lift in a huge truck with an ultra friendly chap who wanted to hear our life stories even though he could hardly speak a word of English.

Karak

• The highlight of Karak was this enormous Crusader Castle. The views of the desert from the top were great and there was an exciting network of underground chambers and tunnels to explore. At one time, the Crusaders used to throw their hapless captives off the walls of the castle to their deaths – 450 metres below.

Excerpt from a letter home

Then, after some raucous parties in Tiberias (the hostel was very festive!) it was back to Jerusalem for some spiritual renewal. Here I met a friendly Australian guy – Mark. We really clicked and decided to travel through Jordan together. So down to Eliat in Southern Israel, a real touristy hell hole of a place with temperatures over 40ºC and enormous cockroaches in our hostel room. From there we crossed the border into Jordan to Aquaba, and Arab seaside resort where local women are definitely not allowed to wear bikinis. The first thing that strikes everyone about Jordan is how genuinely friendly the people are. Smiles and “welcome” wherever you go. On occasion, locals in the buses insisted on paying our fares for us and taxi drivers bought us drinks. Petra was probably the highlight of my whole trip so far – it has to be seen to be believed. Wherever you look – massive, towering temples and tombs carved out of the cliffs. The postcards I sent will give you a feel – but definitely don’t do it justice.

From Petra we headed north to Amman, the capital of Jordan which we used as a springboard to see all the outlying sights including Jerash (huge Roman ruins), Karak (crusader castle) and we also went for another dip in the Dead Sea, from the east side. This time, all the women were swimming in their black robes. Jordan is a very religious country – devout Muslims everywhere. It is very male dominated and women have to dress conservatively. Western women don’t always have an easy time here.  Unfortunately, because of TV and movies that Jordanians watch, men think that western women are all “free and easy” – easy to seduce and consequently female tourists get hassled a lot, especially if they are alone or wearing revealing clothes. The big advantage is that female tourists travelling alone (or in groups) are always on the look out for tourist males to travel with them – as protection. We, of course, were only too happy to oblige! We travelled for half a week with two gorgeous Dutch girls, and then met up with a fun group of really pretty Italians. You’re never lonely in the Middle East because the culture is so “alien”, tourists tend to be very open and friendly to each other – we constantly bumped into people we had met in other towns and then would travel together for a few days before going our separate ways.

After Jordan we made our way into Egypt.



Travel Notes


Petra

• So friendly at customs! Free on South African passport. Catch taxi to Petra (no buses). To friendly hostel - R 14 a night to sleep on roof and R 21 for all you can eat. Musa Spring Hostel. We watch Indianana Jones and the Last Crusade. Phone Ally to arrange her flight to Turkey to join me.

• Tues 28, we visit Petra. Awesome temples and tombs sculptured out of cliff faces. Treasury. Roman amphitheatre. The Monastery - ventured right up on top of it. 45 m high. Gorgeous canyons and views. Petra was built by Nabateans. Lost for 700 years till discovered again in 1812. So many monumental feats - all inspired by spiritual.

• Wed 29, back to Petra. Walk to animal sacrificial altar at peak of mountain. Nice lazy day.

Amman

• Thurs 30 bus to Amman. Arab music galore. Great food at local restaurant, real cheap. To Jerash - a massive ancient Roman town. Spectacular theatre with accoustic center in floor that magnifies sound. Temples, complete arches, glorious central point with column. Very impressive - only 10% excavated. Bugger - we lose my travel book. Mark and I having many deep chats about everything. Getting to know each other pretty well.

• Fri 1/8, a day of visiting desert castles. Go with two very attractive Dutch girls. Decide to go by bus, not tour. Whole day costs us 2.5 dinar instead of ten. Bus to Azraq Castle - dry stone with roof strong enough to walk on. Three ton door of swinging rock. Then taxi to Quasr Amra, with early Islam mosaics of naked women - very rare. Hitch to Quasr Kharaneh, a medium castle / inn with dark rooms and fantastic views of desert from top.  Hitchhiking with Dutch girls - quick pickup. Without, would be very slow!

• Sat 2, visit Madaba to see 6th century map of Palestine on floor of Church of St George. All way back to Amman to go to Karak - massive Crusader Castle with spectacular views and warren of underground chambers and tunnels. 7 stories. Meet hotel manager who loves students - tells us secret of his menu. We pay local price. We have been joined by Stefan, a lovely German chap.

• Sun 3, we go where Angels fear to tread - just for a swim in the Dead Sea. Realise importance (and money saving potential of a good travel book. Lonely Planet much better than Lets Go - more concise and practical. Bus to withn 5 km of sea, then hitch to eventual beach - but must catch slow bus back to Amman where we are forced to spend the night. Our packs still in Karak!

• Impressions: Now that cheap prices, we suddenly hugely price concsious. Will do anything to save a dinar (1 £ English!) Roof everynight with great stars - 2 E£. Food of roast chicken, bread, olives and chiles is 1.5 E£. Bargain for all. Hurt looks, outraged, then all smiles when finalised. Tea. If not bargain, hurt. Chap accepts first offer, oh alright, less. Pity him.

• Women in black coverings with just eyes showing (erotic says Stefan!) - some even covered on beach. Bus routes that make no sense - every journey must start from Amman. Arab markets bustling with goat carcasses hanging everywhere - head included. Friendly people - policeman pays for our bus + gives us his phone number if any problems. Taxi buys us free drinks.

• People take us to 20 minute destinations in person. Apparently, Syria even friendlier - 5 free drinks an hour. In buses, we "converse" for hours with folk who can't speak word of English. Arab music really grows on you - definitely an acquired taste. Buses leave when full - never a problem to find the right bus (friendly people point way), challenge is finding correct station.

• Mon 4, an epic day of travel. From Amman to Karak to get our bags. We manage to catch "service" to Aquaba - cramped in the stuffy back with scratchy speakers. Then a beaurocratic wait for passport stamp and a three hour ferry (beautiful scenery) to Sinai.

Next stop

• Egypt

Israel (16 – 27 July)

Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Masada, Dead Sea, Galilee, Golan Heights, Eilat

Photos, letters and notes from my 11 days solo backpacking in Israel

Places visited

Photos

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Excerpt from a letter

The Middle East has been a real experience – so different from travelling in Europe. The first thing that strikes you is the climate – it’s very hot. In Eilat and Aquaba we experienced temperatures well into 40ºC. There are advantages – one is able to travel really light with just a pair of shorts and a few T shirts (drying washed clothes is an instantaneous affair) – and accommodation is always cheap because all you need is a mattress on the roof (I’ve become addicted to sleeping under the stars).

As you probably know from my postcards, I began my trip by flying into Tel Aviv. After a very short stay (too hot and too modern), I went on to Jerusalem and instantly fell in love with it. Jerusalem is a city that has to be experienced rather than “done”. It is a holy city to Jews, Christians and Muslims, full of extraordinary religious sites and interesting people. The old city is split into four very distinctive segments – Armenian, Christian, Muslim and Jewish – and, of course, the sights and flavours of each are different. It’s amazing how all the religions co-exist in such a concentrated spot. From the roof of my hostel I had a great view of the Christian “Holy Sepulchre”, the site where Jesus is thought to have been crucified. This is probably regarded as the “holiest” site in the Christian religion. No more than 200 metres away I could also see the ‘Dome of the Rock”, an unbelievably beautiful mosque and the third most holy site in the world of the Muslim. Only a hair breath away from here is the “Western Wall”, revered by Jews as their most holy site in the world. NO wonder there are sometimes tensions in Jerusalem. When I was there, everything seemed to be so calm and serene. It was quite a shock when I hears that there had been a bomb blast killing 14 people – particularly considering it went off only a couple of days after I had left Israel. Some of the highlights of my Jerusalem trip included walking along the Via Dolorosa, the road long which Jesus was through to have carried his cross. There are 14 special stations (chapels) along the way commemorating particular events on the journey. I also went to the Western Wall on Shabbat and watched hundreds of Jewish worshippers take part in the sacred tradition – very special. I also climbed up the Olive Mount (famous as the place where Jesus rode into Jerusalem on his donkey on Palm Sunday and ascended into heaven on Ascension Day. The views of the city from here were spectacular.

Another interesting excursion was to wade through a watery tunnel deep under the city – really eerie especially considering that it was Jerusalem’s ancient water supply. Needless to say, my shoes were sopping wet – the first thing I did was to visit a mosque so I could take them off and leet them dry. You get quite confused sometimes; when you visit Christian churches you are often only allowed in with trousers on (no baring your hairy legs!). When visiting Jewish holy places, you’ve got to cover your head and sometimes trousers are required. Visit a mosque and your shoes must come off. All the dressing and undressing! Problem was the only trousers I had were jeans – too hot to wear in the climate, so I had to carry them in my bag for when the need arose.

From Jerusalem I explored the Dead Sea in the Negev Desert – a weird experience to say the least. I’m glad I didn’t shave on the morning of my swim as others did – they were in agony from the salt. The mud on the bottom of the sea is supposed to be very good for your skin so we took delight in covering ourselves from head to foot in the stuff – deliciously slimy stuff that took ages to wash off.

Part of the Dead Sea experience included climbing Masada at 3am in the morning to watch the sunrise and a visit to the beautiful oasis of Ein Gedi. From there to Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee, which I used as a springboard to explore the Golan Heights (north tip of Israel). Compared to the rest of Israel, this area is lush with beautiful rivers and lakes and date trees everywhere. The highlight was swimming in the icy waters of the Bunyan Waterfall.

Then, after some raucous parties in Tiberias (the hostel was very festive!) it was back to Jerusalem for some spiritual renewal. Here I met a friendly Australian guy – Mark. We really clicked and decided to travel through Jordan together. So down to Eliat in Southern Israel, a real touristy hell hole of a place with temperatures over 40ºC and enormous cockroaches in our hostel room. From there we crossed the border into Jordan to Aquaba, and Arab seaside resort where local women are definitely not allowed to wear bikinis. The first thing that strikes everyone about Jordan is how genuinely friendly the people are. Smiles and “welcome” wherever you go. On occasion, locals in the buses insisted on paying our fares for us and taxi drivers bought us drinks. Petra was probably the highlight of my whole trip so far – it has to be seen to be believed. Wherever you look – massive, towering temples and tombs carved out of the cliffs. The postcards I sent will give you a feel – but definitely don’t do it justice.

From Petra we headed north to Amman, the capital of Jordan which we used as a springboard to see all the outlying sights including Jerash (huge Roman ruins), Karak (crusader castle) and we also went for another dip in the Dead Sea, from the east side. This time, all the women were swimming in their black robes. Jordan is a very religious country – devout Muslims everywhere. It is very male dominated and women have to dress conservatively. Western women don’t always have an easy time here – or anywhere for that matter. Unfortunately, because of TV and movies that Jordanians watch, men think that western women are all “free and easy” – easy to seduce and consequently female tourists get hassled a lot, especially if they are alone or wearing revealing clothes. The big advantage is that female tourists travelling alone (or in groups) are always on the look out for tourist males to travel with them – as protection. We, of course, were only too happy to oblige! We travelled for half a week with two gorgeous Dutch girls, and then met up with a fun group of really pretty Italians. You’re never lonely in the Middle East because the culture is so “alien”, tourists tend to be very open and friendly to each other – we constantly bumped into people we had met in other towns and then would travel together for a few days before going our separate ways.

After Jordan we made our way into Egypt. To do so we had to use a ferry across the Red Sea. What an experience it was. Two hours late and crammed so tight with locals there was hardly a place to sit on the open deck –not to mention the problem of the beating sun on the three hour crossing. Drank lots of water. After another two hours in Egyptian customs (you would not believe how inefficient and slow the Egyptian “wheels” turn), we were free to begin our hedonistic lifestyle on the Red Sea.

Travel Notes

Tel Aviv

• Fly to Tel Aviv via Athens. Hot! Meet friendly Australian (Mark). Stay at Gordon Inn.
  Lie and swim at beach. Walk to Jaffa. Write post cards.

Jerusalem & surrounds

• Sat 18 July: Catch "sheroot" to Jerusalem. Walk round Old City. Armenian Quarter. Mount Zion, including David's Tomb. Visit Olive Mount for panoramic views and holy churches & tombs. Walk along Via Dolorasa - road of sorrow along which Jesus carried the cross. Saw some of 14 stations. Experienced Falafel and Shawarma.
• Impressions: Spirituality hangs in the air like a blanket. Jerusalem. 5000 years old, steeped in history. Mosques, Synagogues and churches within a hair breath. 18 conquerors + destroyed 7 times. Orthodox Jews in black with side locks bobbing at the Wall. Have to put on jeans for holiest sites - hot!. Put on my cap for Jewish holies, take off for Christian, shoes off for Muslim. Pilgrims carry cross along Via Dolorasa. Religious, kitch relics everywhere including hologram of Jesus on cross with blinking eyes. Night views of city from hostel roof. Israeli baby soldiers with guns. Arab markets along roofed, narrow streets.
• Sun 19 July: Go on mini bus tour (3 am get up) to Masada for moonset and sunrise, swim in Dead Sea, walk to waterfalls at Ein Gedi. To Mount of Temptation. Jericho. Qumran where Dead Sea scrolls found. Mountain clinging monasteries. Meet nice British guy (engineer).
• In Jerusalem, visit the , site of Jesus tomb and crucifixion. Church dilapidated because no denomination can take responsibility. I write a letter asking for God to show Himself. Sit on hostel roof, overlooking city by night. Call to prayer.
  Mon 20 July: Visit St Anne's Church (beautiful Crusader church with great accoustics) and Pool of Bethesda. Then to City of David and Kidron Valley. See Warren's Shaft. A wet walk through Hezekiah's Tunnel with little Arab chaps. Absalom's pillar. Then to Temple Mount to see Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa Mosque. To Western Wall (and Wilson's Arch) where I leave message. Bobbing orthodox while pray. Black robes and hats.
• Tues 21 July: Meet Mark again (Australian I met on first night). For breakfast at Michael's Cafe, then to David's Tower museum for history of Jerusalem.

Galilee and Golan Heights

• Bus to Tiberius where can't get beyond hotels to swim. Stay at Aviv hostel.
• Wed 22 July: Tour to Golan Heights. Befriend Jessica (Canadian) and Miss Margaret (Byzantine historian). Experiences include Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes (6th century mosaics on 4th century foundations), Mount of Beatitudes (sermon on the mount), wine and liquor tasting (pear, lichi etc), Banias Waterfall, Nimrods's Fortress, museum about Gamla and its destruction by Romans, The Good Fence. Beware of mines signs. Drink pear wine and Thai food with J&B.
• Thurs 23 July: Lazy day swimming in Sea of Galilee. In evening, go out with Jessica and co.

Jerusalem Revisited

• Fri 24 July: Bus to Beit She'an for amazing Roman and Byzantine excavations - especially amphitheatre. To Jerusalem to Western Wall for evening of Shabat. Lots of bobbing and singing. American Jewish visitors especially charismatic.
• Impression: Judaism, Christianity and Islam all so linked - same characters, area, "one god" - just different emphasis on which prophets (Jesus, ancient Jewish, Mohammed) to focus on. Huge importance of symbols, rituals, heritage (incl Holy sites) in religion.
• Dead Sea scrolls shows how people write blue prints for religion - specifications of battle for final war against enemy. Gospels written hundreds of years after Jesus - vocal legends that amplify? Same with illiterate Muhammed. Definite lessons for my Spirituality which is doing well - whenever feel at peace, I pray to Great Mystery and focus on "Blue Blade." 
• Huge cemetery on Mount of Olives - when messiah returns, will be first to rise from dead.
• Sat 25 July: Meet Mark. To Schindler's grave (rocks) and Soloman's Quarry under Old City. Then to Museum of Israel for archeological finds and Dead Sea Scrolls. Stay in beautiful Lutherine Hostel - a veritable oasis.
• Sun 26 July: False 4 o'clock get up! Get to watch Jerusalem lighten from the roof.

Eilat

• Eventually get bus to Eilat. 40 degrees with hot gusts. Stay in shit hole with cockroaches (Eucalyptus). Swim in Red Sea - perfect temperature. Very touristy town.
• Mon 27 July: Laze some more on beach while wait for Mark's visa. Postcard trauma - not put enough stamp on. Dave Hudson off to post office to pay! Phone Mum. Then cross border to Jordon.
• Israel has been fantastic. I have experienced a surge in my spirituality. Tension between two travel instincts - find spiritual oases and experience at length with my heart verse rushing around seeing sights.
• A couple of days after leaving Israel, there is a bomb blast in Jerusalem in Jaffa Street market. Two Arab suicide bombers kill 14 and injure over 100. I bought a chocolate pastry right there. So sad, fundamentalist extremists causing mountains of pain. I get a taste of Jerusalems violent past.

Next stop

• Jordan

The Child

The Child
Blonde kid on a beach
Holding Mummy's sandal in my little hand
Mouth in an unrestrained smile of glee
Hat on head, feet in sand
Smiling at the camera
At Daddy
Who's been there
Since life began
Held me tentatively in his arms
And listened to my first garbled words
Dada! Dada!
And learning to crawl
Watch me crawl, dada!
Rising onto wobbly legs
His eyes watch me. What's behind them?
Unrestrained hugs of love? Whoops of joy at my achievements?
Does he hold me close to his heart and say special things
To his little son?
And do I want to impress him, make him proud, live to hear his praises?
Do I feel his pain? Do I feel his Wall?
Lonely, so lonely in the dark.
Do I try to climb it? Crawl under it?
Vulnerable. So vulnerable.
A little blonde son, with innocent eyes.
Green eyes. The same shade as his.
Trying so hard.
Do I feel his eyes on me - critical eyes?
Picking at my weakness.
Got to be perfect!
Caught in a circle of the past.
And future?
Do I feel his lighter sides too, his laughs and sparkles?
Every day, his presence moulds me.
Seeps into my soul.
The circle turns.
Or does it?

Written:  1997

Reflections from a deck chair

Oludeniz,  Turkey  1997

Reflections From A Deck Chair
I gaze into the sky below
stuck to the ceiling of the world
by an invisible force
that makes leaves fall in autumn,
breasts sag with age,
daredevils hurtle from planes,
water cascade into ravines,
chairs collapse under the fat,
snow avalanche from cliffs,
rain patter onto roofs,
and ostriches stay earthbound
as much as they might want to fly.

Written: 1997

The Netherlands (5 – 24 June)

Amsterdam, Marken, Volendam, Edam, Hoorn, The Hague, Texel

Post cards, travel notes and photos from my 3 weeks spent backpacking solo in The Netherlands.

Places visited

From Post Cards


6th June

• I’m in paradise. Amsterdam has to be one of the most scenic, vibrant, interesting cities in the world. I love the Dutch already – they’re really laid back and totally liberated and friendly. I’m amazed how much of the language I can understand with my Afrikaans. I’m having a very relaxed time soaking up the atmosphere, seeing some museums, and exploring the canals. The hostel here is very cheap so I’m in no hurry to move on.

7th June

• Wow, I’m speechless. I thought I was very open minded, but this just frazzled my outlook. Streets and streets of sex shows, cinemas and shops, and of course, everywhere, windows with very scantily clad, often drop dead gorgeous women beseeching you for sex (your money!). If it weren’t for my terror of Aids (and Ally of course!). God help me! But it certainly is entertaining watching all the goings on.

8th June

• I visited the Van Gough Museum today and fell in love with his work. It’s passionate, alive and colourful. I went to the famous Rijks Museum yesterday and saw some other great art works, including Rembrandt’s “Night Watch”. I’m so enjoying all this culture.

10th June

• Well, I can’t say the art in this very famous modern art museum turned me on much – a bit like the stuff we all churned out in kindergarten. But there was a fantastic photographic exhibition which more than made up for it. I’m still loving Amsterdam and making some really zany Dutch friends – learning Dutch really quickly.

11th June

• I’m still enjoying the sights and sounds of Amsterdam. Some of the activities include the sex museum (watching other people’s expressions was the best part!), sun bathing in beautiful Vondel Park, meeting some very interesting Dutch drop-outs, partying it up at some festive dance clubs, going to the Michael Jackson concert (sorry Gramps!), visiting the Heineken beer factory for lots of free samples, going on a canal boat cruise, the hash museum, window shopping at the Mayna Plaza, etc. Great fun.

14th June

• Spent a quiet day walking around this lovely little town of Marken. Many of the townsfolk still wear traditional dress (albeit, I suspect, for the tourists!). The town is situated on an island, connected to the mainland by a dyke. Very inventive these Dutch. I’m not my best – got a streaming cold – like everyone else in my hostel – sniffle, sniffle!
• I caught the boat from Marken to Volendam. Another beautiful town with delicious frikadels to eat. I hired a bike and rode around remembering to stay on the right side of the road! Great fun – there are more bicycles than Dutch in Holland. Best way to get around!
• I spent an interesting day at Zaanse Schans, shown here. A traditional (rather touristy) Dutch village. Tasted plenty of cheese at the market and Dutch ice cream and saw lots of windmills and how they work inside. Cows everywhere (beat the English sheep) and clog shops. Very scenic and relaxing.

15th June

• Edam, famous all over the world for its delicious cheese, is known as Holland’s “sleeping beauty” because it is so scenic. I gorged myself on the scenery and free samples of cheese. Then to the town of Hoorn I went, on the edge of a vast fresh water sea that the ever enterprising Dutch diked off in 1932. Lovely town with picturesque harbour. Picture book Holland – but I miss the mountains.

17th June

• I spent a fantastic day cycling around Amsterdam on a rented bicycle - felt just like the locals. Very flat but you’ve got to watch out for trams, buses, other pedestrians, bikes, etc and remember to stay on the right. There is a huge music festival in the city right now and everything is free so at night I get to listen to opera, classical, pop – all held open air on the canal. Fantastic stuff. My timing in being here couldn’t be better. My Dutch is fast becoming fluent.

19th June

• The Hague is the provincial capital (not economic) of Holland and I must say it’s a grand city with wide streets and beautiful buildings. Excitement – I got to see an international boule championship held in the city and it left me speechless. You wouldn’t believe the precision, they never miss but just keep hitting each other out of the way and taking shot. I picked up some great tips so cannot wait to have a game with you all! Better get practising Gramps!

20th June

• I’ve found paradise again. Texel, an island in the North Sea off Holland with long sandy beaches, green forests, nature reserves and quaint villages. Lazy days spent cycling round the island exploring on my three speed bike (far more than you need!). There is great bird life here (migrating) so I’m in heaven – oh and there are nude beaches, too!

Travel Notes


Amsterdam

• Thurs 5 June:  Catch bus and hover craft (City Sprint / Hover Speed) to Amsterdam. Takes whole day but relaxing and cheap. Meet sweet South African girl on bus, conservative, strict parents now blown away by Dutch freedom. Arrive 8 pm - goto Red Light. High novelty of beautiful girls in windows beseeching you with intimate, steamy looks and knocks on the window. Slimy doods offer hard drugs from dark corners - do I look suspicious? Visit sex shops to see vast range of videos and magazines on every kink, including animals (eels, chickens!), eau de toilette, fisting, SM etc. Impressions: narrow lined alleyways, tourists stare on the main routes, young groups encourage each other to go in, asking the price. Some of the attractive girls have lines outside. Client goes in and curtains drawn.

• Fri 6 June: Visit Oudekerek, oldest Amsterdam building and right in the naughty district!! Sex Museum - watching reactions especially in explicit section on different sex kinks. History of porno and photos of 1890 - 1970. Walk around the streets and canals of Amsterdam - what a vibrant, beautiful, interesting city with great pub and eatery life style. Weather hot, really hot. Then visit house where Anne Frank hid from Nazis and wrote her dairy. Moved me to tears - family betrayed and her father only survivor. Anne dies only few months from liberation. Dairy translated into 55 languages - a heart filled work of genius.

• Sat 7 June: Walk round the Rijks Museum- over 7 million pieces of art including 5000 paintings. Rembrandt's "Nightwatch" not overrated - spectacular with spot light effect. All other Dutch Masters as well as sculpture, pottery, porcelain and gorgeous doll houses. Come out in T shirt and shorts to find pouring rain. In evening, went for stroll - gave beggar supermarket food including SA's best - mango juice - then to cinema "Devil's Own" with Dutch subtitles and very saucy adverts.

• Sun 8 June: I explore the Vincent Van Gogh Museum - inspirational. A passionate man who only started painting late in life, his transformation from novice, brown paintings to his vibrantly colourful, revolutionary broad brush style. A genius, only painted ten years as he became insane - till his suicide - over 900 paintings. Just before, I help a Sicilian chap to roll his joint and smoke it. Then a relaxing cruise along beautiful tree lined canals to the harbour and back. Houseboats and a gorgeous old Dutch ship (part of Maritime museum)

• Mon 9 June: An early get up to the old Heineken Factory. Very schlick presentations, then to the stables of horses (so thats the secret to beers hue) - all horses named after members of the board. Then wonderful samples where I meet two very nice American girls. Then to the Stedelike Museum of Modern Art. Some impressive - but on the whole, no turn on. Except Nan Goldin photographs. Living, feeling art that brought me to tears. Photography based on relationships, not observation, reflections on her life and her friends. Deep, baring photos that capture the soul. Free life style, drugs, sex, love, pregnancy, operations, battered bruises, holidays and parties, cross dressing etc all captured intimately - including the decimation of the group to Aids - sickness, funerals, sorrow. Slide show to music. Most riveting art I've ever experienced. Art is creative expression that draws emotion. I feel the need to liberate my own creative expressions in some way, burst forth from my self conscious, analytical chains and express. Words are probably the best outlet for me now.

• Tuesday 10 June: An unforgettable day. Laundry and a long chat to a laid back Australian traveler. To the Dam to view the Koninklijk Palace. Shopping sights at the Magna Plaza, clothes galore and Virgin superstore. The World Press Photo Exibition at the Nieuwe Kerk. Then to the Arena for the Michael Jackson concert. Get tickets cheap and meet a wonderful Dutch couple - giving me a great feel for Dutch life, including Queen Beatrix. Some great laughs and fun. The concert is spectacular and emotional with massive explosions and sights and great use of moving image. Jacko hangs from a crane over the audience by his sweaty hands. A girl jumps onto stage and latches on - Michael handles beautifully till guards intervene. (Same girl night before and same emotional breakdown when sings old songs??)

• I join the crowds by train back to Amsterdam. Complete my thriller "And then came a Spider." Excellent psychopath killer read with some good twists. A walk through Vondelpark - meeting some interesting "drop out type" Dutch characters. Dogs mate unashamedly in the field - can't get away from it. Then I make friends with three Dutch guys and a girl. We get on very well - is fun to speak Dutch / Afrikaans - sheltering from the rain under a big tree. They chain smoke hash and drink beer + snort coke off their credit cards (despite police!). It feels good to have some deeper human contact. We almost hug our goodbyes. On the edge of oblivion but loveable nevertheless. Some general impressions: tower bells that play a beautiful tune. Bicycles, bicycles everywhere, watch out because if they don't get you the trams will!! Almost one bike per person. Canals with boats and mottley ducks. High houses with steep stares and gables. People sit at road side cafes and "people watch". Coffee shops sell hash too - milkshakes, tea etc.

• Thurs 12 June: Wake up sick with infected throat. Visit Torture Museum. How could people do such cruel things in the name of the church? Perverted cruelty! Why are we fascinated by it? Especially the wide based Pryamid on which victim was seated and weights attached to legs. Then to Hemp / Marijuana / Hash Museum. Unashamedly pro - glorifying the properties and advantages. Certainly seems to have strong merits for consumption and treatment of many health problems. I'll have to give it a proper try when my throat clears up.

• Fri 13 June: Awake feeling real sick. Fiery throat. Meet two SA's at breakfast. Quick train ride to 
• , a reconstruction of a Dutch village as it would have looked in 1700. Picture book Holland (very touristy) Windmills (including how work inside - triple story structure with massive network of cogs just to squeez oil out of pea-nuts!), clogg shop, cheese market (delicious samples), traditional Dutch houses, cows. Relax and write postcards. Wonderful evening with Amanda, SA girl as we hit the town. Classical music concert (including opera) on a huge makeshift platform on the canal. Brilliant and free of charge.

• Sat 14 June: My cold has broken. Gush. Bus to Marken, a traditional town on an island joined to the mainland by a dyke - my 1st! Wooden houses and some traditional dress. Beautiful harbour. Take boat to Volendam with a vibrant (very touristy) waterfront. Cute baby ducklings paddle along the canal. My first Frikadel (very nice.) Home early to nurse my cold. Off to music concert. Fantastic African band "Seven seconds away = popular song), then Samba. People dance.

• Sun 15 June: My running nose has congealed. Walk to station to catch bus out but so exhausted, decide to rest for day. 15 days of no neck clicking! And been feeling a lot better. Street festival, some entertaining comedian shows from rope walker and Houdini artist. Another concert tonight - traditional classical, followed by an extraordinary, alternative band with all sorts of ingredients (even heard a tune or two in there somewhere!) Very enjoyable though. Whole city closed off due to Euro summit. Impression: A bicycle with side car, huge Australian horn blown by passenger, "open the prisons", furtive, cheeky glances at little politie group as hum past.

• Mon 16 June: My cold is running again. God dam. To Holland's sleeping beauty, Edam. Gorgeous quiet canals, houses and shops. Very few tourists - refreshing. Walk and laze on canal banks. Lovely rural and suburban feel. Then to the town of Hoorn, on the edge of the Ijsselmeer, an inlet of the Atlantic that the ever enterprising Dutch diked in 1932 to form a fresh water sea. Lovely town with picturesque harbour - boats everywhere. Walked through the quaint town center to harbour, then along "coast". Warm weather. Final concert night - opera, then pop including Katrina and the Waves "Walking on Sunshine" and "Shine your Light."

• Tues 17 June: I hire a bike and ride round the city. To harbour, across canal by free ferry, delicious lunch from bakery, back to cycle Amsterdam canals. Lots to watch out for - trams, cars, other bikes, people + stay on right of road. Cold seems better. Impressions: Best cherry yoghurt in 500ml tubs with whole cherries. Chicken Pita. Cape fruit juice - especially Mango, salad shreds, frikadels, vrites "chips" with mayonnaise, curry and onion, krokets,

• Wed 18 June: I spend the entire day chatting to an Italian girl, about life and spiritual matters. From 11 am to 6 pm in garden by canal, then she gets me supper. I think she may be very needy but it feels nice to listen and connect. I've been missing real human contact. Gets me thinking about spiritual energy.

The Hague

• Thurs 19 June: To The Hague (Den Haag). Grand city. Bool on wide pavement in square. Open, rink divided by string, ground has light covering of sand and pebbles. Frenetic pace, lots of games on go, very informal, all types of dress. ome smoke. Practice - hit bool, spin away, then hit that - keep going. Marksmen. Hardly ever miss. Some go down on knees. Knock bools together in congrats. All ages, tent eatery. Some bools very high in sky. Some advertising branding along sides. Roadside vendor sell bools. Knocking out of way or closer is major part of game play - crashing down on bools, often to take shot - massive spin so stop dead. Tour old city - parliament buildings and palaces, eat a "kroket", read "Wall Street" newspaper, then proceed to the medium city forest.

• Coots diving for their young and building nest, carp spawning frantically. (not at all interested in fisherman's bait!) Lots of life in middle of city. Back to Amsterdam for an early night.

Texel

• Fri 20 June: early get up to catch train to Den Helder, then ferry to Texel (one of Wadden Islands in North Sea.) Mix up of Youth Hostels. I hire a bike and ride to Panarama Hostel with back pack and all. (Handled challenges like a pro!) Then cycle to harbour (Oudeschild) and along a dike to a quaint village (Oosterend) for very best apple pastry ever had. Cycle through forests and dunes to sandy (and blowy) beach. Then back to Den Burg and the hostel for a beer. Lock won't work on bike - never mind. Girl cycling with her horse. Get stink bug in my eye.

• Sat 21 June: Windy and miserable. Breakfast with my new German friends - she in Re-assurance. Fix my bike by blowing in it (sand!), then cycle to Den Burg for delicious "chicken springrole" (Loempia) and read magazines. Back to Hostel for hilarious reading of Roald Dahl's "My Uncle Oswald" Wickedly funny. Impression: Extraordinary bike contraptions for carrying young kids - windscreen with seat, baby rucksacks, baby trailers etc.

• Sun 22 June: Rainy and miserable. Then bike in rain and wind to Den Hoorn for a beer and bacon pancake. Relaxing. Then to sand storming beach - no nudes!! Back for a sleep where I meet slow American (Craig) and full of life Dutchman (Hugo). Hugo is passionate about sailing ships. Wonderful to have a consuming interest! Then off for supper (Loempia). The evening is beautiful so I cycle through the forest to town of De Koog. Sneak into farm for sunset but all the sheep charge for me, thinking I'm going to open gate to green pastures. Complete book "When She Was Bad" by Ron Faust. One of best thriller yarns ever read.

• Tues 24 June: Up early to the bus station by tram. Manage to get on. Meet nice British chap and have some good laughs. Dreadlock kids light their joints in the hovercraft after intensive French search. Hovercraft amazing - "Hope you enjoyed your flight." Can't wait to see Ally.
• Back in England!

London (24/6-27/6)

• Hello again, Ally. A very quiet couple of days resting. London weather has been foul for weeks non stop. Catch train to Coventry to get tent. Booked my flights for my next trip (to Israel etc). Lunch at Nando's. Get ready for Ireland.

Van Gogh Museum

Rijks Museum 

Nan Goldin exhibition

Red Light District

Anne Frank House

Central Station

Michael Jackson Concert at The Amsterdam Arena

Next stop  

• Israel