Life Trove: Day 14: Godthul & Jason Bay

Tanya's Diary

The morning begins with a call over the tannoy at 6am! Though, to be fair, it’s not an unreasonable hour – the expedition leader, Christian, has allowed us the opportunity to head to shore at this early hour so we can beat the weather and get to shore and back before the swells and winds pick up.

We quickly get into gear and cruise over in our Zodiac to Godthul, which is Norwegian for ‘good hollow’. Godthul was used as a whaling station between the years of 1908 and 1929. Along the shoreline were lots of fur seal pups, some rusting barrels, a shed and boats run ashore from the whaling days long gone.

Further along, there is a track that winds its way up a hill filled with tussac grass, an interesting tufty type of plant that takes 200 hundred years to grow! As we make our way to the top of the hill, we see seal pups hiding in amongst the grass, grumbling at us as we move past them! We reach the top of the hill to beautiful views of the mountains surrounding us, and we film a lesson on the rock cycle.

Back on the ship, it’s still early, so we have brunch as the captain and expedition leader take us to a sheltered cove called Jason Bay. We’re back on shore on a pebbly beach filled with fur seals, elephant seals, king penguins and leopard seals swimming nearby. Once again, it’s the perfect backdrop for more lessons to add to our ever-growing collection of educational content for Upschool’s ‘The Power of One’ learning sequence.

The day ends with some fascinating insights into seal breathing techniques from Bia, the marine biologist, and a lecture from Dr Karl about ‘Absolutely fabulous moments in science.’

My Account

A morning hike at Godhul

Beach landing

Godhul, located on the northeastern coast of South Georgia Island, is a picturesque and historically significant bay. Known for its abundant wildlife, such as fur seals and king penguins, it is a popular destination for nature enthusiasts and researchers alike. Godhul also holds a unique place in the island's whaling history, as remnants of early 20th-century whaling activities can still be found on its shores.

We landed on the shore by zodiac and laughed in delight at the antics of the hyperactive fur seals playing in the shallows of a river on the beach. Many of the seals were perched on tufts of tussock grass, a distinctive feature of South Georgia. This tussock grass grows slowly, taking 200 years to reach full size. It provides an invaluable habitat for the local wildlife.

We came close to land to enable us to land on a day of big swells

The beach where we landed with a river running into the ocean

So many beautiful seals

We got to hike up the hill for great views

The hike was tricky and slow going at first as we had to navigate a hill of tussock grass that was slippery and kept revealing hidden seals who we didn't want to disturb. The seals are very feisty, and despite being very cute, can be a little scary when they mock charge you as a way of saying "Bugger off, this is my domain!"

Once we got up the hill, the going got a lot easier and we enjoyed great views of the bay. There was also a glassy still lake that reflected the surrounding mountains beautifully. After a bit of ambling, we arrived at a gathering of Gentoo penguins, malting at the top of the hill. Quite a climb for them too, but the hill provides them with much some much needed protection from predators.

Climbing up the tussock grass

Lovely view of the bay

A beautiful mountain lake

Walking at the top of the hill

Gentoo penguins malting at the top of the hill

Afternoon landing at Jason Bay

Jason Bay, situated on the northern coast of South Georgia Island, is a stunning and pristine place teeming with wildlife. The area is particularly famous for its thriving population of king penguins. Additionally, the shores of Jason Bay are frequented by elephant seals, which can often be seen lounging on the beach or engaging in their unique social interactions. We landed on the beach and walked up the local estuary some way, enjoying interactions with fur seals and female elephant seals. We then returned to the beach and walked along it, watching terns swooping down to the touch the ocean.

Fur seals on the left, female Elephant seal on the right

A rare albino fur seal

King penguins

We also had close views of King Penguins protecting eggs . King penguins, like other penguins, have a unique method of keeping their eggs safe and warm. They do not build nests; instead, they incubate their single egg using a specialized pouch called a brood pouch. The brood pouch is formed by a fold of skin and feathers located above the parent's feet. The penguin places the egg on its feet, covers it with the brood pouch, and balances it there to keep it off the cold ground. Both parents take turns incubating the egg, swapping duties every few days, while the other goes out to sea to feed. This process ensures the egg remains protected and warm until it hatches after approximately 55 days.

Many of the penguins were protecting an egg under their feet

King penguins always have to be wary of Skuas who steal their eggs. It's a battle of wills as to who blinks first!

Blue-eyed shag

The South Georgia shag is a marine bird species endemic to the sub-Antarctic region, particularly South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands. This cormorant-like bird is characterised by its dark plumage, with a distinctive white patch on its cheeks and throat. South Georgia shags are skilled divers and feed mainly on fish and small marine invertebrates. They breed in colonies along the rocky coastlines and cliffs, building nests with seaweed, grass, and feathers.

The shag above inspired this art by Jordan

An Arctc tern flies by, swooping down to touch the ocean from time to time

The Arctic tern (Sterna paradisaea) is a species of tern that can be found in South Georgia during its breeding season. These small, graceful birds are known for their remarkable migration, traveling between the Arctic and Antarctic regions each year. With their streamlined bodies, sharp beaks, and forked tails, Arctic terns are well-adapted for their long journeys and life at sea. In South Georgia, they nest in coastal areas, where they lay their eggs and raise their young before embarking on their annual migration once again.