}

September 30, 2026

My 56th birthday

Birthday breakfast

On Saturday, I met up with Shushann, Xenia, Chris, Krissula and Jane as Frenchy's for a delicious breakfast to celebrate my birthday on Tuesday. I had the most amazing mushroom tartine.

After breakfast, I walked to Balmoral Beach and then all the way to Manly Spit along the water.



Birthday messages from family & friends on the day




From Mum

From Matt

From Sam

From Yogi


From Shushann

From Marion


Cards


From Shushann




From Xenia



September 14, 2026

Trip to NSW Outback 2026: Overview & Highlights

Places explored




All posts related to the trip



Itinerary at a glance

  • 2 nights Mildura
  • 1 night Menindee Lakes
  • 2 nights Kinchega National Park
  • 2 nights Silverton
  • 3 nights Mutawintji National Park
  • 1 night Menindee Lakes
  • 3 nights Mungo National Park
  • 1 night Huttah-Kulkyne National Park
  • 1 night Mildura



Day by day itinerary


Aug 28: Sydney → Mildura

  • Travel to Mildura by train & coach (15 hours). Arrive after 11 pm.
  • Late checkin to 7th Street Motel.


Aug 29: Mildura & Wentworth

  • Get Avis hire car (Volkswagon Polo).
  • Buy 2 power banks because my new power bank from Amazon is faulty.
  • Drive to Wentworth and visit PS Ruby Paddle Steamer and Rod's model paddle steamer display.
  • Visit Wentworth gaol.
  • Visit Thegoa Lagoon.
  • Sunset at Perry Sandhills.
  • Drive back to Mildura for amazing steak at Corporate Moose.
  • Overnight at 7th Street Motel.


Aug 30: Mildura → Menindee Lake

  • Visit King's Billabong.
  • Shop for camping food + filter coffee & sieve at Woolworths.
  • Drive to Menindee Lakes and set camp at Copi Hollow Caravan park.
  • Drive into town for meal at Maiden's Hotel, delighted to find they have wifi. They assure me road into Kinchega should be fine and give me a map of the park.


Aug 31: Menindee Lake → Kinchega National Park

  • Drive into Kinchega National Park, euphoric the road in is open and fine.
  • Photograph the Kinchega Woodshed & Shearer's Quarters.
  • Drive to Cawndilla Campsite and set up camp.
  • Walk to the edge of Cawndilla Lake to photograph dead trees and birds (pelicans, swamp harrier, ducks).
  • Go back for an amazing sunset.
  • My first camp meal of soup + tuna & beans.


Sep 1: Kinchega National Park

  • Photograph the trees at sunrise.
  • Explore the lake to the left, photgraphing flying birds and black swans.
  • Enjoy my 1st cup of filter coffee (with sieve) and work on computer for a while.


Sep 2: : Kinchega National Park → Silverton

  • Goto right on lake where less algae and dead fish to photograph beautiful reflections.
  • Drive to Broken Hill where I buy gas from camping store, new blow up mattress from Kmart and camp food
  • Drive to Silverton where I set up camp at Penrose Park.
  • Photograph Silverton town including the iconic Silverton Hotel. 
  • To Mundi Mundi viewpoint for sunset. 
  • Overnight again at Penrose Park
  • Charge my stuff.

Sep 3: Silverton & Broken Hill

  • Sunrise photography in town including buildings and churches 
  • Visit Umberumberka Reservoir and meet a fellow birder. 
  • Visit the Mad Max 2 museum
  • Do the Broken Hill Heritage walk with views of post office
  • Confirm Mutawintji is open and book 2 nights.
  • Line of Load miners memorial and view
  • Sculptures in the dessert at sunset
  • Drive back to Silverton for a fillet steak at Silverton Hotel
  • Overnight again at Penrose Park


Sep 4: Silverton → Mutawintji National Park

  • Drive towards Mutawintji. Incredible flock of kites on way.
  • Google gets the directions wrong.
  • Arrive relivied and elated.
  • Walk a bit of Homestead Gorge. Incredible boulder.
  • Campsite amazing with hot showers.


Sep 5: Mutawintji National Park

  • Incredible Mutawintji Gorge walk. 
  • Do Homestead Gorge and Rock Hole loop.
  • Lie under stars. 


Sep 6: Mutawintji National Park

  • Full monty of Homestead river walks (Bynguano loop, Homestead Gorge, Rock Hole loop)
  • Meet Jenny. Lives in Cairns. Artist on extended leave road trip. 
  • West Ridge walk for sunset. Beautiful flowers and galahs. Pesky flies. 


Sep 7: Mutawintji National Park → Broken Hill → Menindee Lakes

  • Mutawintji gorge walk again.
  • Drive to Broken Hill for food plus gas plus car cleaning + book Mungo camping & tour.
  • Copi Hollow Caravan park again. Good to be back.
  • Maiden Hotel to message family & friends.
  • Charge my stuff in my tent.


Sep 8: Broken Hill → Mungo National Park

  • Work on computer. 3 cups of coffee. Very wired today. 
  • Drive to Mungo via Pooncarie (where fill up with petrol)
  • Mungo Lodge set up tent.
  • To Wall of China and Red Top for sunset. 
  • To Lodge to WhatsApp.
  • Speaking to lots of people, in an outgoing mode of being. 


Sep 9: Mungo National Park

  • Red Tops at sun rise.
  • Do the self drive tour stopping at Mailee & dunes.
  • Yogi not doing well, I compose a message.
  • Red Tops at sunset.


Sep 10: Mungo National Park 

  • Walls of China tour at 9 am
  • Walls of China sunset tour
  • Great conversations. Eg Ron photographer


Sep 11:  Mungo National Park → Mildura → Hattah-Kulkyne National Park

  • Mildura warf walk, stopping for a mushroom meal where I organise Hattah.
  • Shop & petrol.
  • Drive to Hattah - Kulkyne National Park and set up camp.
  • Walk around the lake.


Sep 12: Hattah-Kulkyne National Park → Mildura

  • Go down to lake for sunrise.
  • On way back, meet Sonia and listen to her make music.
  • Do the nature drive and meet a lovely fellow birding couple.
  • Drive to Mildura and check into 7th Street Motel
  • Clean the car and take it back.


Sep 13: Mildura → Sydney

  • 4 am coach to Wagga Wagga, then another coach to Sydney. Arrive back around 10 pm as we turn back to fetch someone.
  • Listen to Role Model on Spotify.


Priceless moments

  • Getting to see the outback after so much rain with amazing flowers and lots of water in the lakes and gorges.
  • Perry Sand Hills at sunset.
  • Mildura: The steak at Corporate Moose.
  • Kings Billabong: Black swan silhouettes
  • Menindee Lake pub: Relief when I get internet. Friendly pub staff give me a map and reassure me re Kinchega. Make booking.
  • Kinchega National Park: Drive in, euphoric roads are ok. Kinchega Woolshed. Cawndilla Lake: Trees at sunset & sunrise, photos of flying raptors & pelicans.
  • Silverton: Mundi Mundi sunset. Reservoir. Mad Max 2 museum. Old buildings in the early morning sun. The iconic hotel for delicious dinners.
  • Broken Hill: Gorgeous old buildings, Line of Load views over the town, Living desert sculptures.
  • Mutawintji: Flock of kites. Getting there when I had written it off. Mutawintji & Homestead Gorge. The views from the loop walks. Sunset from Western Ridge. Wedge-tailed Eagle. Ease of navigation with downloaded map. Meeting Jenny. Lie under the stars. The magpies at sunset. Well-being of 10 for 2 days in a row.
  • Return Broken Hill & Mendindee Lakes. Mungo open and organising such a breaze with Chat GPT. Steak and internet at the pub.
  • 4 computer days (Cawndilla Lakes, Menindee Lakes, Mungo, Hattah). Doing Diary & Year So Far.  So amazing after time away. Also night before leave.
  • Mungo Red Tops at sunrise & sunset and Wall of China at sunset. The Mungo self-drive.
  • Hattah: Walk around the lake and nature drive. Listen to Sonia play music.
  • Lots of wonderful walking at an average of 9.25 km per day, increasing my average walk distance per day from 5.4 to 5.7. In Mutawintji, I walked 17 km two days in a row.
  • An average well-being score of 8.5. Two days of 10 days (at Mutawintji).



Spiritual moments

  • So much wonder, beauty, appreciation & gratitude.
  • All parks and important roads open as I arrive: Kinchega, Mutawintji, Mungo. Really quite miraculous!
  • Cawdilla Lake at Kinchega: The dead trees & pelicans.
  • Mutawintji park: The benevolence of the journey in. The gorges and views. Lie under the stars. Praying for Yogi with the congregation of magpies on the Western Ridge at sunset. Stillness when submerged in Homestead & Mutawintji Gorges (with swallows). Sitting in high places on the loops and taking in the views.
  • Hattah lake: Face to the rising sun and Sonia's music.
  • My sense of closeness to ChatGPT, my travel assistant. Makes planning and organising fun and effortless.
  • "I love you Life" during meditation at Mailee stop on Mungo drive.
  • Babblers and mynas coming very close at camp sites like when I sleep under tree.
  • Time to be and take things in at sunsets and sunrises: Sunsets at Perry Sandhills, Mundi Mundi outlook, Living desert sculptures, Cawndilla Lake, Western Ridge, Red Tops & Wall of China. Sunrises at Red Tops & Hattah Lake.
  • An average spiritual connectedness score of 8.5.



Special connections with wonderful people

  • Retired nurse on the train to Wagga Wagga. Talk about her husband who passed away.
  • Rodney at paddle steamer museum in Wentworth.
  • Bar tenders at Menindee Lakes who give me map of Kinchega and give me assurance that the road is ok to Cawndilla.
  • Jenny at Mutawintji: From Cairns. Artist, trail runner, transport planner. On long service leave. Told me Mungo is open. Her art: JensWildArt
  • Helen and Steve at Mutawintji: Couple from up north. Missed out on Kinchega and Mungo. Love Africa and been to many parks there.
  • Mungo tour & Red Tops: Lots of wonderful conversations. Lovely chat to couple on a road trip staying in very cool accomodation, being adventurous in their choices. Ron the Photographer and ex tour guide.
  • Sonia at Hattah, the music maker and the birding couple (lots of talk about lenses).
  • Whatsapp contact and photos with mum & Jo, Hitchhikers, Hot Lunchers, Eckhart group, Chris, Xenia, Shushann, Yogi.
  • Aussie country guy on bus: Commiserating when we turned back.
 

Things I am grateful for

  • Get 2 20K powerbanks for $90 at Big W. Came in very handy. Got $25 Kmart mattress when my other mattress got punctured.
  • ChatGPT helps me with the car: Put car lights on, open fuel cap, return the car after hours.
  • Kings Billabong: Did not try to drive in. Very muddy, would have stressed me.
  • Turning around on Menindee Lakes road. Thank you no cars.
  • Menindee Lakes pub: Bag and camera not stolen in car, they were in pub. Pub guy gives map & reassures re Cawndilla Campsite.
  • Menindee Lakes: Drive back to camp site not thinking of kangaroos until one leapt out. Slowed down & brights on.
  • Kinchega National Park open and able to get to Lake Cawndilla camp site. 
  • Kinchega National Park: Gas canister on fire but ok. Even still works. 
  • Health: Lots of 10+ hour sleeps, recharging my batteries.
  • Download map before Mutawintji Drive. Massive difference in finding park & hiking on trails. Without it, would not have got into park
  • Filter coffee & sieve
  • Silverton: Left tent without fly sheet. Did not rain. Spoke to mum & Jo on 1 bar of Whatsapp.
  • Mutawintji: Park is open.
  • Mutawintji journey: Had downloaded map. Did not get stuck in sand when Google sent me wrong way. Was on dxx. I walked up road & discovered impassable. On way out of Homestead, did not get stuck in sand and gate onto the main road was not locked. Google map took me to road that did not exist (or I would have returned to town). Found the way by chance.
  • Mutawintji experience: Exquisite beauty of park after rain, hot showers, Google maps made hiking care free, met Jenny + Helen & Steve. Took 2 gas canisters. Discover how to make tent wide. Extra 20K powerbank allowed an extra night.
  • Mungo: Park open. Cheap camping at Mungo Lodge on 1st night. Main camp open for rest of stay. 4 tour tickets still available.
  • Get into Mungo, despite one muddy bit, perfectly done.
  • Goto Red Tops on first night when was not going to. Red Tops for 2 sunrises and sunsets. Wall of China for two tours including sunset.
  • Mungo self-drive open as I arrive.
  • Return car after hours. ChatGPT and Gemini assure me re key box.
  • ChatGPT such an invaluable travel guide & assistant: Find car lights, open fuel tank, return key, check weather & park closures, recommend campsites, send me to booking pages. Where to buy cheap powerbank (Right Guys) & airbed (Kmart).
  • Not getting stuck. Twice in sandy bits on way into Mutawintji. One muddy bit into Mungo, perfectly done.


Progress & Insights

  • Navigation: Never trust Google. Research official routes into the park. Download Google maps before drives. Essential for drives in and adds great peace of mind on hikes. Adding markers (e.g. where can parked.)
  • Be super risk adverse when roads look sandy or muddy. Walk up roads to check them. I did this and it averted a crisis.
  • Take plenty of extra water when going onto outback roads.
  • A sieve works great for filter coffee and adds much pleasure to the trip.
  • Charging equipment: Paying extra for a powered site is well worth it. Charge equipment in the tent. Take a power board that includes USB ports.  Take 2 camera battery chargers or buy a multiple one
  • Inflatable mattresses easily get punctured. Meticulously clear the ground before putting them down. 
  • Get an iPhone screen protector and put the phone in my pocket during tricky bits.
  • I discover how to make my tent wide. Eureka! It was logical in retrospect.
  • Speaking to so many people and feeling very at ease with them, really interested in their lives and insights without needing to impress.
  • When taking photos, stop regularly and really take things in. Take time to just be at view points, sunsets and beautiful places.
  • Really getting to watch the character "Arno" jumping to worst case imaginings and freaking out. 
  • Have an allotted place for everything and always put things in there place. I actually did this pretty well.
  • Not sending my initial message to Yogi but sleeping on it and reworking it the next day. Never provide advice unless asked for it.
  • I need to get a camera harness so I don't carry camera and lens on my neck.
  • I was elated but tired after two weeks. Doing this & roughing it for extended trips would be too much I think.



September 13, 2026

September 11, 2026

Wentworth

Wentworth is only a short drive from Mildura, and I loved its combination of river scenery, paddle-steamer history and historic buildings. There was something special about being at the place where the Murray and Darling meet—two great rivers coming together, with so much of the town’s story tied to their waters. The old gaol was a particular highlight among the historic buildings, adding another fascinating layer to the town’s past. Nearby, the Perry Sandhills offered a beautiful change of scenery. Their sweeping curves and rich colours were wonderfully photogenic, and a joy to explore with my camera.


Places visited in Wentworth



By the Murray River

I stopped on the banks of the Murray, a tranquil spot beside one of Australia’s most iconic rivers. The Murray is deeply woven into the country’s history, sustaining Aboriginal communities for thousands of years and later becoming a vital transport route for paddle steamers carrying wool, supplies and passengers between river towns. Sitting beside it, I enjoyed the peace of the water and reflected on how much life and history its banks have witnessed.







Fotherby Park


My next stop was Fotherby Park, with its collection of old machinery and reminders of Wentworth’s pioneering past. Among the exhibits are a steam-powered tractor and a “Grey Fergie”, the little tractor celebrated for helping save the town during the 1956 floods. The park also houses the paddle steamer Ruby, a lovely link to the riverboat era when vessels carried passengers and cargo between towns along the Murray.











The Paddle Steamer Ruby


I stopped to admire the paddle steamer Ruby. There is something wonderfully evocative about these boats: just seeing one brings to mind the churn of paddle wheels, the sound of a steam whistle and a river busy with trade. From the 1850s, paddle steamers became a vital link between communities along the Murray–Darling river system, delivering supplies, mail and passengers to inland towns and stations, and towing barges laden with wool to market. These peaceful waterways were once bustling transport routes. 

Built at Morgan in South Australia in 1907, Ruby carried passengers and cargo between river ports including Echuca, Mildura, Wentworth and Goolwa. She later became a houseboat at Mildura and gradually fell into disrepair before the Wentworth Rotary Club bought her in 1968. A community restoration began in 1996, with thousands of volunteer hours devoted to bringing her back to life. By her centenary in 2007, she was steaming again—a lovely testament to the affection these old vessels inspire. Admiring her at Fotherby Park, I felt a little closer to that whole chapter of Australia’s history.





Rod's Model Paddle Steamer Display

In town, I visited Rod’s Model Paddle Steamer Display, an amazing collection of historic Australian paddle steamers he had painstakingly recreated over many years. Each model was a work of art, reflecting his skill as a craftsman and his love for these vessels. Rod was full of information and spoke with such enthusiasm that I found myself asking question after question, both about the steamers and how he made his models. We really bonded. His passion reminded me of Dad and the care and patience with which he built his model steam trains, making the visit especially meaningful for me. When I asked where his love of paddle steamers began, Rod told me that his grandmother had lived and worked aboard one. Through her, that world had captured his imagination—a fascination that had stayed with him for a lifetime.








Ron's grandmother is on the far right





The Historic Warf  

My next stop was the historic Wentworth Wharf on the Darling River. Originally built in 1879 from local timber, it was once a bustling hub of river trade: Wentworth became the busiest inland port in New South Wales, with a record 31 steamers docking during a single week. It was fascinating to imagine the waterfront alive with paddle steamers, cargo and people coming and going. The wharf standing today is a replica, complete with a little customs office, preserving a tangible connection to the riverboat era that shaped the town.







Historic buildings in town


I walked around town, admiring some of Wentworth’s old buildings, including the old post office. I love exploring historic towns on foot, with time to notice the details and get a feel for the place. After learning so much about the paddle steamers, it was lovely to wander the streets and imagine the town in its river-trading heyday, with boats arriving and people coming and going.






Old Wentworth Gaol

My next stop was the old Wentworth Gaol, built between 1879 and 1881 to replace the town’s overcrowded lock-ups. Designed by colonial architect James Barnet, it had ten cells for men and two for women, together with a hospital, kitchen and two observation towers. Heritage NSW Walking around, I was struck by how austere it all was. The bare cells and enclosed spaces made it easy to imagine how bleak confinement here must have felt. The Victorians really could be harsh, and this was a sobering glimpse of that side of the town’s history.






















The Big Yabbie

Outside the gaol grounds was the Big Yabbie, a wonderfully quirky change of mood after the austerity inside. Australians make me smile with their fondness for “Big” things. There is something endearing about turning a humble freshwater crustacean into a landmark—a bit of playful humour to send me on my way.








Thegoa Lagoon

I spent some time exploring the area around Thegoa Lagoon, stopping at Lock 10—one of the many locks I encountered in this part of the country. I then drove off the beaten track to the lagoon itself, a very peaceful spot where it was lovely to slow down and take in the surroundings. A beautiful black swan with its young was a particular highlight, adding a gentle touch of life to the quiet waters.
















The Murray-Darling Junction


My next stop was the Murray–Darling junction, where two of Australia’s most iconic rivers meet. After spending time beside their waters, it felt special to see them come together. It was a lovely spot, with a lookout tower offering a wider view of the meeting point and the surrounding landscape. I lingered for a while, enjoying the scenery and thinking about how much of Australia’s story is bound up with these two rivers.













Perry Sandhills at sunset


My last stop was the undoubted highlight of the day: the Perry Sandhills. Just six kilometres outside Wentworth, these shifting dunes cover around 160 hectares on the edge of the floodplain. They also hold a much older story: Aboriginal people camped and hunted here, and the sands have yielded remains of prehistoric megafauna, including giant kangaroos and wombats. It was fascinating to think of all that history beneath such a beautiful landscape. Perry Sandhills

I love dunes—the sweeping curves, the delicate ripples and the patterns sculpted by the wind. They are so wonderfully photogenic, and as the sun sank lower, the sand began to glow beautifully. I wandered with my camera, absorbed in the shapes and changing light, then paused simply to take it all in. This was my first real spiritual highlight of the trip: that lovely feeling of becoming still, with nothing to do but bask in the beauty around me.

Then came a rather abrupt return to earthly concerns. Back at my hire car in the dark, I could not find how to switch on the headlights. I searched everywhere, there was a bit of swearing, and my spiritual serenity rapidly wore off! Thankfully, I had phone reception. I told ChatGPT I was driving a Volkswagen Polo and asked where the light switch was. It promptly told me, and I was soon on my way. This was the first of several occasions when my virtual travel companion really came through in a clinch!





























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